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We were there over Christmas 2008. Ditto what everyone has said about the reefs. Dead. So sad. Even Waterlemon Cay was a shadow of its former glory - and that was one you could always count on. I did one two-tank dive. Christmas Cove was as bad as the reefs, Little St. James Ledge was in good shape - not surprising since that's a private island.
The hiking is still phenomenal. The national park is doing a great job maintaining the trails and they were not at all crowded.
I'd go back to St. John for the hiking.
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