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#1 (permalink)
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Guppy
Founding Member
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Dive Light Help me choose.
Ok so I am still new at this whole diving thing, and now am getting ready for my night / limited vis specialty. I know that the LDS will supply a light for the class, but I like to own my gear. I also sail and camp so a multi tasker would be nice.
I want suggestions on lights that will not break the bank, (under 100 is a requirement!) but will still be worthwhile as a light. If I can get a better light that is Incandescent vs LED for the same money, I will take the Bulb. That being said, if the LED is much better for a little money, what is the difference. Most dives I will do will be under 1 hour and bringing extra batteries is not a problem as long as I can replace the batteries. Please list any recomendations, along with why you like that light. Its good and bad points. Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Grouper
Founding Member
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There are some good lights out there that are affordable. You can get something like this http://scubatoys.com/store/detail.as...D=ShockwaveLED for $109. Take your 10% off for being a scubaboard memeber and it drops to less than $100. Throw your $10 or $50 gift certificate in and you can get it for half price.
You could go with one this http://scubatoys.com/store/detail.as...CT_ID=UKC4eled and add the LED module later on. That would get you in around $50. But the burn time is less, and it's not as bright. This one http://scubatoys.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=UKC8 is a little brighter than the second one listed, but still incandescent. For a touch over $100 (after your discount) you can get a package like this http://scubatoys.com/store/detail.as...T_ID=UKELedPak which will give you a primary, and a backup light along with some other toys. Always a good option. As far as batteries, they add up quickly. I'd suggest a rechargable pack for the light if it's available or heavy duty batteries that you throw in a charger. Shane |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Grouper
Founding Member
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Have a look here, it might give you some ideas and information
Primary light I ended up deciding on the Princeton Tec LED Miniwave - supposed to provide the same light, but it's smaller (which suits me) and just doesn't last as long as it doesn't have as many batteries in it. Lots of people had good things to say about these LED lights. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Grouper
Founding Member
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Quote:
I left HID lights out of this discussion based on the $100 price limit.
__________________
-- TxHockeyGuy |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Barracuda
Founding Member
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Quote:
Just ordered the same light from ST. I looked at all of the lights and found this to be the best bang for the buck, by far. I think ST sells it for $89 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Moderator
ST-Forum Mod
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It's my personal opinion that Princeton Tech lights are not your best choice. I'm no light expert but I have used several of these lights over the years and I just don't think they are a good choice for long lasting durability. Granted I have always used the lesser priced ones, never the higher priced ones. Those $20-$40 ones that will fit into a BC pocket or the cheaper priced pistol grip styles that mostly use 4C batteries.
They work well, while they work, they just don't seem to have a very good lifespan. We use them up fairly quickly. The switches seem to be the biggest problem as they are not designed to last. I only use them because they are the gear that is provided for me. For my personal use I don't think, for comparable pricing, that you can beat a good 4C, 8C or larger Pelican light. Those elecronic switches are the berries. They are bright and last and last. The Pelican pistol grip 4C cell light is about the same price and twice the value and the 8C light is the same light only bigger. Like I said it's just my opinion, for what it is worth. In defense of Princeton Tech I know a lot of people who do like them but I will pass it up for a Pelican light everytime. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Guppy
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I've foiund that I prefer my smaller BC pocket/backup light for some day low viz dives because it is easier to operate and that helps keep the dive equipment mangement issues at a lower level (less stress).
__________________
Inland temperatures today are expected to be in the upper 90s....cooler by the lake. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Guppy
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Things to consider when buying a light:
1) How you want to hold the light? i.e. pistol grip or a more traditional flashlight style. Pistol grips are fine for night diving but don't store very well if at all in a BC pocket if you want to carry it along during the day for occasional use. 2) Do you want a twist on/off or a real switch? Some folks prefer real on/off switches. From posts I've read on SB, some folks are flooding their Q40 eLED+ lights. I'm assuming it is because they are used to using MagLites and are accidently turning the end the incorrect direction. The direction you turn the end is backwards from one another. MagLite unscrews (counter clockwise) to turn on and the Q40 eLED+ screws on (clockwise) to turn on. Get confused, and you may unscrew the Q40 end too much trying to turn the light on and accidentally flood the light. 3) Beam width & Hotspots. Some lights have a very narrow beam while others fan out. Narrow beam Lights work well for peeking under ledges during the day. Lights with center hotspots are good for being able to point out things to your buddy. i.e. if you only have a very wide angle beam with no hotspot, you may not be able to point out that octopus or small arrow crab at night. From the lights I've played with: IkeLites have very bright & narrow beams. Similar for the UK SL4/SL6 incandescent series. UK SL4/SL6 are not quite as bright or narrow beams as the Ikelites. The PT C4 miniwave LED has a very bright but very wide beam. No real hotspot which makes pointing out small things very difficult. The UK C4 eLED. Not quite as bright as the PT miniwave but has a slight hot spot in the center. The UK beam is not as broad/wide as the PT miniwave. The UK Q40 eLED+ has medium width beam. Wider than the IkeLites but much narrower than the UK C4 eLED. Defintely not as bright as the UK or PT C4 LED lights. I've used the Q40 eLED+ as a primary light in clear waters but most folks tend to want a bit more light and consider this only as a backup. Wife just bought a UK SL4 eLED. Beam seems really narrow and bright. Not as bright as the Ikelites. Definitely has a center hotspot. Haven't tested it yet under water. 4) Type of light (Incandescent, LED, HID, etc...) In the <$100 price range, I think HID is out. LED lights are the most robust type of bulb. They essentially don't wear out and there is not a filament to break. They also tend offer the highest light for the battery life. The different types of bulbs have different types of light. The same coral or fish will appear different colors with the different types of light. The LEDs while appearing "whiter" are not really full spectrum. Contrary to what many folks say, LED lights are not a "truer" light. I have noticed that they tend to have a bluish tint and some of the colors in fish or corals don't show up quite as well as under non LED light. Never used an HID so I have no experience with these. LED lights are catching up in brightness to the incandescent and HID lights. I have noticed that my Q40 eLED+ while very nice to use in very clear Caribbean waters even as a primary on some dives, it is all but useless during the day for peeking under ledges. It just doesn't show up hardly at all. Lights like the IkeLites or the UK SL4, or U SL6 work great during the day. Another quirky thing to keep in mind is that incandescent lights attract blood worms at night. LED lights do not. My wife used an IkeLite PCa and she would always have a swarm of worms around her light and hand, while I had none around my Q40 eLED or PT C4 MiniWave. I prefer not to have the worms myself. But if you ever intend to feed blood worms to a brain coral, which is a very fun and cool thing to watch, you will not be able to do this with a LED light. 5) Next, decide how much light and battery life you need. It is always a trade off. Brighter lights tend to use more battery life. Some of the LED lights like the C8 versions are VERY bright and have up to 20 hours of life. My personal feeling is that it isn't worth going to C8 versions because the light is the same as the C4 versions. The difference is the battery life is double in the C8s. However, the size is much bigger and the weight is much heavier. 6) Can the light be use for extended periods above water? Certain lights like the IkeLites cannot be used for long periods of time above water. The super high itensity bulbs generate so much heat that they can melt the reflector and housing after 10 minutes or so. 7) Special brightness control circuitry The UK LED lights have special circuitry that ensures nearly a constant brightness for the majority of the life of the batteries. After this time the bulb will start to dim and when most of battery is consummed, it will turn the brightness down by 90 %. This will allow the light to be used for literally days in a low intensity mode. It also will keep the power drain low when the battery life is low, which prevents the generation of hydrogen gas. This is particarly good for rechargeables like NiMh or even NiCad. (My wife had an IkeLite explode in her hand when using rechargeable batteries) ------------------------------------------------------------ So adding it all up. You are looking for a multi-use light. One that can be used for a primary scuba light and for sailing & camping. Given the multi use desire. That would seem to make the pistol grip lights less desirable. They just don't pack as easily. Also, keep in mind that I believe a night dive should be a night dive. i.e. You want enough light to see all the night critters but not so much to scare them off and turn a night dive into a day dive done during the night. To me the best value buy right now is the UK SL4. Not sexy but at less than $20, it can't be beat. This light is used by all the dive shops as rentals at all the places I've been. (I'm guessing it is because it is simple and rugged) Great brightness, works well during the day, 4-5 hour burn time, fits in most BC pockets so you can keep it with you even during the day. You can use rechargeables, as long as you don't push them for more than a couple of hours. At that price you could get more than one to use the extra one as your backup or keep a dedicated one for diving and another for the other uses. <$40 is hard to beat for two lights. Moving to LED, my current favorite is the UK SL4 eLED. Narrow beam with good brightness. I like the form factor and that it easily fits in a BC pocket so it can be taken on all dives. There really isn't anything else in it's price range that has this. Ok, there are a few others less than $100, like the IST 3W with rechargeable batteries. However, I'm not a fan of aluminum. The threads tend to give off shavings which can catch in orings and cause failures. Not that I know this happens in the IST light, but this has been a failure in the Glo-Toobs. Ignoring that, the 1.5 hour burn time is too short for me. If I used it any during the day, it would need to be recharged before the night dive. The IST is VERY small though. I bought a PT C4 miniwave LED last year. (Man LED light prices have really gone up since then) It was a tossup between it and the UK C4 eLED. At the time I couldn't really compare them other than at the LDS (Scubatoys). I picked the PT because it was rated as being slightly brighter and the prices were very close. After seeing them both under water. I'd get the UK. Its a slightly narrower beam and it has a hot spot, appears nearly as bright and has slightly longer battery life specs. Currently, the UK C4 eLED is quite a bit cheaper than the PT miniwave LED light. So In terms of LED lights I'd rate them: 1) UK SL4 eLED. 2) UK C4 eLED 3) PT C4 miniwave LED. I know its pretty long. Hope it helps. --- bill |
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date |
| Recommendations for dive lights? - ScubaBoard | This thread | Pingback | 05-15-2008 08:59 PM |
| What is a good dive light? - ScubaBoard | This thread | Pingback | 10-23-2007 11:51 PM |
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