Fantasea

[Clernix]

I realize the Fantasea line is not carried on Scuba Toys but I was wondering if anyone has used the line. I bought the 2075 strobe with arm and tray. I tried it out on some shallow dives in Playa del Carmen. It stayed dry to 40ft which isn't much I realize. I was not to happy with the strobe. I think it may have been user error though. Got a lot of blue shots. Fantasea does seem to have a very simple set up I am just wondering if it is ingenious or just lacking.

I plan to upgrade to the 6117 strobe before Coz this Xmas just to give them a fare shake.

If any of you have used this camera equipment I would really like to hear what you have to say.

[Clernix]

After posting I scrolled down and saw the other posts about Fantasea. There wasn't any information except a post of a fellow that wanted info on the same strobe. There was a post in reference to Fantasea's customer service. I have contacted them a few times and each time recieved an answer within 48 hours. They also responded quickly to follow up questions.

[DevilDiver]

The 2075 is actually a set that comes with the tray, arm, strobe (Nano #6115), bag and F/O cable.

The Nano is a lower end but cost effective strobe. From the specs I would say it has a slow recycle time and narrow beam. Would be fine for someone looking for cost effective product and some OK snap shots underwater, definitely limited range portrait and close up shots.

The Remora (# 6117) also a cost effective low end item appears to have a wider beam, a faster recycle time and cooler temp with a longer battery life.

I was on a trip earlier this year where a diver was using the Nano #6115 with not much luck. Problems getting it to fire mostly, but he was a mess and I did not to get involved since according to him he was a dealer for the product and had it all figured out. Best to leave some things alone........

If you plan to purchase something else I would look at a Sea & Sea YS-17 or YS-27 or possibly the Ike DS-51 or Oly UFL 51 that would be in the same price range.

If you give some examples of the photos (with the meta data if possible) and a description of the camera and your preferred settings we could look at exposure issues that might be a factor. Any strobe will have limited effects as far as distance, background exposure is a more common issue IMO.

[Clernix]

Thank you for your responee. I am sitting at work or I would post the pics now. I was looking at Ikelite flashes. I am look at teh af35. There is a small sensor on the arm does that take place of the fiber optic cable on the Fantsea. So you would let the main flash fully fire? In the fantasea instrutions they had me tape over the flash on the camera. Maybe at depth it wasn't enough to set of the flash. hmm. The camera I am using is the Nikon cool pix sl11

[DevilDiver]

Originally Posted by Clernix

Thank you for your responee. I am sitting at work or I would post the pics now. I was looking at Ikelite flashes. I am look at teh af35. There is a small sensor on the arm does that take place of the fiber optic cable on the Fantsea. So you would let the main flash fully fire? In the fantasea instrutions they had me tape over the flash on the camera. Maybe at depth it wasn't enough to set of the flash. hmm. The camera I am using is the Nikon cool pix sl11

I would wait before jumping on the AF35........ The fiber optic cable is not a bad thing, you might just need a better way to conect it.

First... What housing are you using?

Second... What kind of issues were you having with the strobe or conection?

Thrird..... When you say your photos were too blue it would help if you could post an example to evaluate so we know what we are dealing with.

Let's see if we can figure out what the issues are and then we can look at some options.

[Clernix]

Picture 228.jpg

Picture 227.jpg

Here is a couple pics. I am using the Nikon Cool Pix L11.

The issue with the fiber optic cable was when I was testing it in the pool and in the house. The pics were over exposed. I wrote to Fantasea and they suggested covering the flash on the camera with tape. I did and to completely block it out I had to put a few strips of tape on it. The flash still fired but I am thinking while diving maybe the light was absorb.

The housing is from Fantasea as well made for the L11

[DevilDiver]

First from looking at the photos I can't see that your strobe was firing. I am guessing that you are using the Fantasea F/O cable. If the strobe is not sync'd with the camera or if the F/O cable is not secured correct you will have issues with the strobe firing or firing at the correct time with the camera. Make sure everything is working (test around the house and/or in a mirror) because underwater is not the place to have to mess with this.

Link to F/O manual:
Product Manual

Underwater the strobe will only be effective at a maximum of 5-6ft to light your foreground. As far overexposure there are settings on this strobe that will need to be adjusted based on distance and how reflective the subject is, this will take practice. Best to take multiple shots of each subject while making adjustments and reviewing to find the correct exposure. Remember every time you move or angle the camera different you are changing the amount of light the camera is utilizing to capture the photo. Practice this around the house, try different angles with the strobe to see how it affects your photos and what you like.

Consider the above, if I am off base from what you are looking for let me know and we can look at other issues.

As far as the Ike AF35... Ikelite makes some great products but I personally do not like this type of strobe where it is dependent on an optic sensor (with no direct connection) to sync with the camera. There is too many scenarios that would cause the strobe to not fire or fire when not wanted, basically IMO it is undependable. Fiber optic is the better choice.......

[Clernix]

would you tape over the flash on the camera?

[DevilDiver]

Originally Posted by Clernix

would you tape over the flash on the camera?

Yes, what this does is block the cameras onboard flash witch will light particles in the water because it is close and on the same angle as the lens. You of course need to make sure that the exposed portion of the fiber optic is not obstructed and can receive light to trigger the strobe.

After you work with the strobe and feel you got it where you want it you can look at changing some of the cameras settings to help balance the exposure and give you better colors. Remember the strobe only lights the foreground of the photo, you will still need to manage the exposure of the background. Most common this will be over exposed because the camera is only seeing the conditions without considering the strobe because it is not electronically connected (TTL).

[Clernix]

I used red electrial tape to cover the flash and had to use about 4 strips. It still had a red light in housing. Should I completely black it out and put a hole in the tape to let a little through to trigger the optic cable or just dimm the flash.