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PepeDiver
06-18-2008, 21:51
Looking at 3 old tanks...new to me. Asking $50 ea. However...I suck at figuring out the numbers. It appears the hydro is current on the yellow and blue. The black one has a last hydro of 03. Are these worth buying or am I asking for more trouble than they're worth? I've got to leave but tomorrow I'll try to get the picture of them posted.


Black Tank:3AL CTC/DOT-E 6498-3000 P 320297 LUXFeR 1Arrow up 80

Yellow Tank: 1CC-3AA2250 A-21059 USD 2v63+ Other side: 5 Sideways S 75 2 Lo 79 5D8/13 04

Blue Tank: 3L83 5 A1/94 89 5 08/13 04 3AC DOT-E 7042-3000-D 50886 WK 5A79

mike_s
06-18-2008, 23:20
Black Tank:3AL CTC/DOT-E 6498-3000 P 320297 LUXFeR 1Arrow up 80


this is an AL tank, made maybe in Jan 1980. old... stay away from old AL tanks. chances are this is a 6351 alloy. (aka a paperweight now).




Yellow Tank: 1CC-3AA2250 A-21059 USD 2v63+ Other side: 5 Sideways S 75 2 Lo 79 5D8/13 04

is this tank steel? maybe a Steel 72 (rated at 2250psi) made in Feb 1963.

slap a magnet to it and see if it sticks.

prob nothing wrong with it as long as it's got air in it. you'll want to check the inside for rust. if it's been left drained of air, then it's most likely rusted inside.

is it worth $50 bucks? the answer to that is no as it will need a hydro ($25 average) plus a VIS ($10 average). then an airfill ($5 average) so then you've got $90 bucks in an older tank that you won't be able to sell for $90 bucks. Your money would be better spent on a different tank.



Blue Tank: 3L83 5 A1/94 89 5 08/13 04 3AC DOT-E 7042-3000-D 50886 WK 5A79

gimme a second on this one. looks like it was made in 1979. if it's aluminum, stay away from it also.

ScubaToys Larry
06-18-2008, 23:23
The other is a Walter Kiddie stay very very very far away from that one.

And the first is a T6351 and no one will want to fill it, and the steel, if you want a steel that is that old - you might have to tumble and unless modified, the valves from that year used a straight through burst disk, and probably an old J valve - so by the time you do all that to the tank... I'd say skip that as well.

Take the 150 you were going to spend, and buy one new aluminum and you'll be much happier.

awap
06-19-2008, 06:45
Link: CYLINDERS & VALVES (http://www.scubaengineer.com/tank_servicingx.htm)

Looks like the exemption E7042 is bad Al also.

skdvr
06-19-2008, 07:24
I would certainly stay away from those AL tanks...

The steel tank I may take if it had air in it and he cut the price in half. There was a guy near me that was sellign 4 72's for $25 each. # had air in them and one did not. All 4 tanks ended up being in perfect shape. They also had k-valves on them. I was on my way out there to buy them and someone beat me to it. The guy who bought them is selling the valves for them on scubaboard for $5 + shipping. So if that 72 has the old valve you could buy a valve from him.

Otherwise I would probably just put that money to better use and do what Larry said and buy a new tank...

Phil

PepeDiver
06-19-2008, 12:31
This is the yellow (and presumed steel) tank. I've ruled out the other two after reading ya'lls responses. I've asked the seller if she can tell if its got air in it or not and to find a viz date on there if possible. I may have her take it for viz before I commit to anything.

As far as J Valve goes....the valve on this tanks isn't one correct? I've only seen one once before but I'm pretty sure this isn't one.

PepeDiver
06-19-2008, 12:38
The other is a Walter Kiddie stay very very very far away from that one.

And the first is a T6351 and no one will want to fill it, and the steel, if you want a steel that is that old - you might have to tumble and unless modified, the valves from that year used a straight through burst disk, and probably an old J valve - so by the time you do all that to the tank... I'd say skip that as well.

Take the 150 you were going to spend, and buy one new aluminum and you'll be much happier.

Oh dont worry I'm buying tank(s) from you later this year. :smiley20: I know you're not just drumming up business here!!!! I've done some looking at these numbers and what not trying to figure out whats bad and whats not but I wasn't having much luck! You guys being more knowledgeable on this stuff than I makes it easier to figure out!!

I've got to go to Wichita Falls for 9 weeks starting in August and I plan to do some shopping while I'm down that way. I fully intend to buy at least 1 tank while I'm there. And leave my regs with you when I head out for their service.

skdvr
06-19-2008, 12:56
This is the yellow (and presumed steel) tank. I've ruled out the other two after reading ya'lls responses. I've asked the seller if she can tell if its got air in it or not and to find a viz date on there if possible. I may have her take it for viz before I commit to anything.

As far as J Valve goes....the valve on this tanks isn't one correct? I've only seen one once before but I'm pretty sure this isn't one.

That one is a K-valve...

IF the owner can just crack the valve open, and see if it hisses then you should be good to go. You would still have to figure in the cost of a Hydro and Viz though, and probably a rebuild of the valve for piece of mind.

Phil

cummings66
06-19-2008, 14:59
If I recall the WK cylinder has a bad rep because it was the brand that exploded, but I don't think it was a 100% failure rate and that a good vis would keep you safe. But, the odds of a good visual are not that high. Most shops gloss over it and paper whip the inspections, resulting in failures. Then the issue with all the old AL cylinders like that is many dive shops won't fill them regardless of the current vis sticker.

I think a new used AL cylinder is worth $50 - $75, not all the old ones like that. Of course that means I don't see many...

in_cavediver
06-19-2008, 16:56
This is the yellow (and presumed steel) tank. I've ruled out the other two after reading ya'lls responses. I've asked the seller if she can tell if its got air in it or not and to find a viz date on there if possible. I may have her take it for viz before I commit to anything.

As far as J Valve goes....the valve on this tanks isn't one correct? I've only seen one once before but I'm pretty sure this isn't one.

That yeller tank seems to have a 5/04 hydro on it so its technically in hydro (till 5/09 or 11 more months). I'd do the air/vis check and see.