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scubadiver888
02-05-2009, 20:04
What are all the different underwater housings for the Nikon P6000 camera?

I know there is one from Ikelite and Fantasea. Are there any others?

DevilDiver
02-05-2009, 22:49
That is the only 2 that I could find as well.

How do you like the camera?

Good luck!

scubadiver888
02-06-2009, 07:37
That is the only 2 that I could find as well.

How do you like the camera?

Good luck!

The camera isn't bad. I originally considered the Canon G9 but had to wait. By the time I could afford the camera the G10 had been released then the Nikon P6000.

When I tried out the two camera in the store they seemed similar. The G10 was a little faster at processing the image after you clicked. The Nikon had nicer buttons and I found the user interface to be more intuitive. I figured I could live with the shutter lag (and so far not an issue) but I don't believe I should adapt to the software, so I went for the more intuitive Nikon interface. The sales person was sure I was making a mistake; I think his Canon bias was showing. :smiley2:

The image quality is great. The movie mode is a neat feature. I shot my wife and dog at an agility event. I was a good 30' from the arena but the images turned out great and I even got audio from the floor.

Now I just have to find an underwater housing. I am hoping to start using it underwater this summer. I'm trying to up my experience and work towards DM (ultimately Instructor). Adding underwater photography and videography would be nice.

DevilDiver
02-06-2009, 08:02
Thanks! I have not found any comments or reviews on the P6000 as far as U/W, let us know how you like it....

Here is a side by side of the P6000 vs. the G10 if you are interested.
Digital Cameras Side-by-Side, 2 cameras: Digital Photography Review (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_g10%2Cnikon_cpp6000&show=all)

If you do not already have it, here is a link to the IKE housing.
Ikelite Digital Housing for Nikon Coolpix P6000 [ike.6182.60] - $569.95 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros (http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3364)
The only issue I see is adding an auxiliary lens....

The Fantasea housing apparently is not out yet (2-06-09) but should be soon. It appears to have a 46mm thread port that would allow you to add lenses, ect.
1119 Fantasea FP-6000, Underwater Housing for the Nikon Coolpix P6000 Digital Camera (http://www.adorama.com/FEFP6000.html?searchinfo=p6000&item_no=9)

:smiley20:

scubadiver888
02-06-2009, 09:29
I don't know how good my review of underwater is going to be. I've never done underwater photography before so I have no idea what to be looking for. I'll post something though. :smiley2:

I have the link to the Ikelite housing. I found that before I purchased the camera. I wouldn't have bought the camera if I wasn't sure there was at least one housing for it. That was the only housing I found until recently. Maybe there will be a lot more this summer. Probably won't use it underwater until July or August. I'll be busy in training for May/June (instructor won't let me play while in training).

I found a website 'selling' the Fantasea housing for the P6000 but the image was for the FP-5000 housing and the camera in the housing was defintiely NOT a P6000. I guess they were pre-ordering.

Thanks for the link to the Fantasea. It is a LOT cheaper than the Ikelite. Any idea why? I need to figure out what to look for when selecting a housing. Right now, fits my camera and does not leak are the only things I know to look for. I found out TTL = Through The Lens and I'll probably need lighting, and not just a strobe, so I can do the video mode as well.

DevilDiver
02-06-2009, 09:54
Thanks for the link to the Fantasea. It is a LOT cheaper than the Ikelite. Any idea why? I need to figure out what to look for when selecting a housing. Right now, fits my camera and does not leak are the only things I know to look for. I found out TTL = Through The Lens and I'll probably need lighting, and not just a strobe, so I can do the video mode as well.

The Fantasea housing would not have the TTL circuitry or the base and handle like the Ike. Ikelite has a good reputation for quality housings as well. I have not found any bad comments on Fantasea housings but they are more basic. I heard that Fantasea makes the manufacture housings for most for the big names but I am not sure if this is true.

TTL is a big factor for some photographers but it is not an necessity, you could still connect a strobe and operated manually. A video or focus light could easily be attached to the arm of the system for your video needs.

Keep looking and researching, if you find items and have questions post and I am sure some one will be able to help....

Welcome to the $$ world of U/W photography!

*** I thought I should add that some strobes offer DS-TTL adjustment mode (Digital Slave TTL) where the output of the cameras flash can be mimicked by the strobe through a fiber optic connection.

scubadiver888
02-06-2009, 14:01
The Fantasea housing would not have the TTL circuitry or the base and handle like the Ike. Ikelite has a good reputation for quality housings as well. I have not found any bad comments on Fantasea housings but they are more basic. I heard that Fantasea makes the manufacture housings for most for the big names but I am not sure if this is true.

Looking at the manufacturer housings they don't look like the Fantasea housings. It is possible that Fantasea makes the housings for them but to different specifications.

Honestly, the specs and price for the Fantasea stuff is usually better than the specs and price (less feature and more money) of the manufacturer housings.


TTL is a big factor for some photographers but it is not an necessity, you could still connect a strobe and operated manually. A video or focus light could easily be attached to the arm of the system for your video needs.

What does 'operated manually' mean? On a guess, the TTL circuitry tells the strobe how much and how long to flash for. By manually you mean I'd have to set the strobe separately so it, hopefully, matches the camera settings. Could be problematic if the camera is in point and shot mode.


Keep looking and researching, if you find items and have questions post and I am sure some one will be able to help....

Welcome to the $$ world of U/W photography!

*** I thought I should add that some strobes offer DS-TTL adjustment mode (Digital Slave TTL) where the output of the cameras flash can be mimicked by the strobe through a fiber optic connection.

Okay, now I'm confused. What is the difference between TTL, iTTL and DS-TTL? Or is this all the same thing?

DevilDiver
02-06-2009, 16:47
Before all the confusing explanation- with the choice of the two housings for the P6000 you will be able to connect a strobe in one of three ways.....

Slave Sensor- small sensor usually usually attached to the arm that detects the cameras built in flash when fired. Works but not 100% dependable and can misfire.

Fiber Optic Cable- cable from the master (camera) to the slave (strobe) is used to 'feed' the light from the master to the sensor of the slave. Very dependable easy to use.

Cable Fired (Ikelite housing only)- A digital Adapter (built into the Ikelite housing) an electrical signal which is transmitted to the strobe via a conventional sync cable. This would allow TTL if used with Ikelite strobes.

What does 'operated manually' mean?

Manually operated means there is an adjustment knob on the strobe with multiple light (power) level settings (Min-Max) so you complete manual control. The strobe is still connected or slaved to the housing controlling your flash but you choose the power (light) level.


What is the difference between TTL, iTTL and DS-TTL? Or is this all the same thing?


:smiley5: Oh s**t.... I hope this makes sense. Basically all the same concept just different ways to get there.

TTL flash metering works by measuring the pulse of flash-generated light bouncing back off the subject and entering the lens, the sensors record the amount of flash-created light returning to the camera through the lens and automatically shut off ("quench") the flash when an appropriate amount of light has been produced.

E-TTL Basically proprietary technology developed by Canon.

iTTL Basically proprietary technology developed by Nikon.

DS-TTL - strobe adjusts its flash to match the flash output of the cameras built-in TTL flash or an external TTL strobe so that the cameras TTL sensors regulate total flash output. This system is activated only when you are using another main TTL flash/strobe such as a built-in TTL flash of a digital camera or another TTL strobe connecting it to digital cameras with pre-flash function using a fiber-optic cable, the strobe can be used in the fully automatic DS-TTL adjustment mode (Digital Slave TTL).

I really hope this helped........ If I got anything wrong let me know.

scubadiver888
02-06-2009, 21:05
Before all the confusing explanation- with the choice of the two housings for the P6000 you will be able to connect a strobe in one of three ways.....

Slave Sensor- small sensor usually usually attached to the arm that detects the cameras built in flash when fired. Works but not 100% dependable and can misfire.

Fiber Optic Cable- cable from the master (camera) to the slave (strobe) is used to 'feed' the light from the master to the sensor of the slave. Very dependable easy to use.

Cable Fired (Ikelite housing only)- A digital Adapter (built into the Ikelite housing) an electrical signal which is transmitted to the strobe via a conventional sync cable. This would allow TTL if used with Ikelite strobes.

What does 'operated manually' mean?

Manually operated means there is an adjustment knob on the strobe with multiple light (power) level settings (Min-Max) so you complete manual control. The strobe is still connected or slaved to the housing controlling your flash but you choose the power (light) level.


What is the difference between TTL, iTTL and DS-TTL? Or is this all the same thing?


:smiley5: Oh s**t.... I hope this makes sense. Basically all the same concept just different ways to get there.

TTL flash metering works by measuring the pulse of flash-generated light bouncing back off the subject and entering the lens, the sensors record the amount of flash-created light returning to the camera through the lens and automatically shut off ("quench") the flash when an appropriate amount of light has been produced.

E-TTL Basically proprietary technology developed by Canon.

iTTL Basically proprietary technology developed by Nikon.

DS-TTL - strobe adjusts its flash to match the flash output of the cameras built-in TTL flash or an external TTL strobe so that the cameras TTL sensors regulate total flash output. This system is activated only when you are using another main TTL flash/strobe such as a built-in TTL flash of a digital camera or another TTL strobe connecting it to digital cameras with pre-flash function using a fiber-optic cable, the strobe can be used in the fully automatic DS-TTL adjustment mode (Digital Slave TTL).

I really hope this helped........ If I got anything wrong let me know.

I used to do film photography but it has been 25+ years. When you talk about Slave Sensor are you talking about the devices which detect the main flash and fire within milliseconds of the main flash? I used to have equipment where I'd set up what I called slave flashes. I'd place them off to the side or behind the subject to eliminate or reduce shadows. When the main flash would go off the slaves would detect the main flash (wirelessly) and fire. They would fire faster than the exposure time of the camera (1/60 sec).

Is underwater photography the same? The camera has a fixed exposure time and you adjust the aperture and/or flash?

What about focusing? I'm guessing it would be less critical if the focal length was set at infinite. If I remember things correctly that means a smaller aperture and you compensate with the flash, right?

So the underwater case has to give me access to the adjustments for focus, brightness compensate, etc.

I had a look at the picture you posted here... how did you get such good lighting? Are they touched up with software? Is the water shallow? Some of the things I want to photograph are at 90' to 110'. What kind of problems am I going to have at those depths. I know the colour loss, anything else?

Oh, just thought of something for the housing... I'll be wearing 5mm gloves. I doubt I can work the multi-function buttons above water wearing my dive gloves.

Have you ever done photography in 45F water?

DevilDiver
02-06-2009, 21:45
Thanks about the pictures. If you tell me witch one I can give you details..

Yea, you pretty much got how strobes work. I know the Fantasea housing is cheaper but IMO you will be happier with the Ikelite especially with your experience with cameras plus I believe there is more space between the buttons if wearing gloves. If you haven't follow the link to the Ike housing page and read up on the strobe packages and iTTL info.....
Ikelite Underwater Housing for Nikon P6000 Camera (http://ikelite.com/web_two/nik_p6000.html)

U/W has a few challenges compared to topside. Lighting of course is primary and strobes are a must. Strobes will take care of the foreground and you can control background with shutter speeds. Focal length and DOF can be changed as needed for wide angle or close up.

Lighting changes with depth so settings will to but at lower temps you could have issues with condensation (use moisture munchers) from the heat the camera will put off in the housing but others might be able to say more about this (I do not dive cold- Cold is 70 to me).

You should look into some U/W photography books, with your background I am sure you will catch on quick. Here are a couple that I have read and would recomend.....

Must have-
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ABGKFHXGL._SL160_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-dp,TopRight,12,-18_SH30_OU01_AA115_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Underwater-Photographer-Third-Traditional-Techniques/dp/0240519884/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978405&sr=8-3)
The Underwater Photographer, Third Edition: Digital and Traditional Techniques (http://www.amazon.com/Underwater-Photographer-Third-Traditional-Techniques/dp/0240519884/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978405&sr=8-3) by MARTIN EDGE (Paperback - May 8, 2006)

Very good-
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61K1WHQ344L._SL160_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-dp,TopRight,12,-18_SH30_OU01_AA115_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Guide-Underwater-Digital-Photography/dp/1584281669/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978405&sr=8-1)
Master Guide for Underwater Digital Photography (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Guide-Underwater-Digital-Photography/dp/1584281669/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978405&sr=8-1) by Jack Drafahl and Sue Drafahl (Paperback - Aug 1, 2005)

Great book-
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Zq-2pgMwL._SL160_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-dp,TopRight,12,-18_SH30_OU01_AA115_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Underwater-Photography-Manual-Techniques/dp/2940378223/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1233978405&sr=8-11)
The Essential Underwater Photography Manual: A Guide to Creative Techniques and Essential Equipment (http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Underwater-Photography-Manual-Techniques/dp/2940378223/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1233978405&sr=8-11) by Larry Tackett and Denise Tackett




One of the best books ever, older and basicly about film but the concepts are classic...
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510659G5G8L._SL160_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-dp,TopRight,12,-18_SH30_OU01_AA115_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Churchs-Essential-Guide-Composition/dp/1881652181/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978599&sr=8-30)
Jim Church's Essential Guide to Composition: A Simplified Approach to Taking Better Underwater Pictures (http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Churchs-Essential-Guide-Composition/dp/1881652181/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233978599&sr=8-30) by Jim Church (Paperback - Nov 25, 1998)

scubadiver888
02-07-2009, 10:32
Yea, you pretty much got how strobes work. I know the Fantasea housing is cheaper but IMO you will be happier with the Ikelite especially with your experience with cameras plus I believe there is more space between the buttons if wearing gloves. If you haven't follow the link to the Ike housing page and read up on the strobe packages and iTTL info.....
Ikelite Underwater Housing for Nikon P6000 Camera (http://ikelite.com/web_two/nik_p6000.html)


:smiley5: Had a look at the Ikelite stuff. The housing is $600 USD, the strobe with a good arm is $600. If I want video (and I do) I'd need lighting. I tend to avoid things like the flex arms, they loosen up after a while. I'd pay the extra for the SA-100 arm. That means another $625. :smiley5:

I used to think scuba diving was expensive. Ack! This doesn't include a case to hold everything either! I think I'm going to have to shop around and see if I can find a deal on any of it.


U/W has a few challenges compared to topside. Lighting of course is primary and strobes are a must. Strobes will take care of the foreground and you can control background with shutter speeds. Focal length and DOF can be changed as needed for wide angle or close up.

A lot like sporting events. I don't have the option to place slaves behind the subject and there is too much space to bounce a secondary flash off the background.

Nice thing about digital is I can pick a stationary object and try different things. I do this a lot above ground. I'll take 500 photos each with a slightly different setting and see how they come out. Had to roll bulk film and develop my own when I experimented with film. :smiley36:

I find the experimenting half the fun. Used to use infrared film with regular film settings. Gots some cool effects. Now I try the different scenery modes in the wrong environment. :smiley2:


Lighting changes with depth so settings will to but at lower temps you could have issues with condensation (use moisture munchers) from the heat the camera will put off in the housing but others might be able to say more about this (I do not dive cold- Cold is 70 to me).

Thank you so much. I had seen people talking about moisture munchers but I incorrectly assumed it was a safety incase the housing started to leak. I found the FAQ section on the Ikelite section and they reiterated this as well.

I'm aware of the light loss due to depth. I have some pretty good software that will let me do colour shifting. I won't be able to totally correct it but with good lighting it should be okay.


You should look into some U/W photography books, with your background I am sure you will catch on quick.

Thanks for the book recommend. I'll see if any of our local stores have them (I'm sure they will).

This has been very helpful. I'm still going to look around for other housing options but I think, ultimately, I will end up with an Ikelite. Is there a higher end manufacturer? Not necessarily with a P6000 housing but just higher end? I have access to a D200 as well.

DevilDiver
02-07-2009, 13:07
I used to think scuba diving was expensive. Ack! :smilie39:

Is there a higher end manufacturer? Not necessarily with a P6000 housing but just higher end? I have access to a D200 as well.

Now your talking!!

Ikelite i-TTL Housing for Nikon D200 (http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1152)
$1,500.00 $1,424.75
You Save: 5%



Light & Motion Titan for Nikon D200 (http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1844)
$4,499.00 $2,000.00
You Save: 56%


Sea & Sea DX-D200 Housing for Nikon D200 (http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1233)

$2,799.00 $1,400.00
You Save: 50%


Subal ND20 for Nikon D200 w/ Standard Viewfinder (http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1361)

$3,950.00

Then you have to look at ports and still need allthe other stuff (strobes, tray, arms, focus light) as well... $$:smiley5:$$

I don't have the option to place slaves behind the subject and there is too much space to bounce a secondary flash off the background.

You can actually do this to an extent. With an optically fired strobe all you need is the sensor (where the fiber optic cable plugs in) to be able to "see" a flash. This can be another diver with camera/strobe or a strobe that you remove from the arm and place or hand hold.

jugglematt
02-08-2009, 00:41
Hi scubadiver888

i thought i might jump in here , firstly let me say im using the coolpix p5100 and am very happy with the results underwater, i would think the p6000 will have similar if not better peformance.

im using a ikelite housing for my camera and looked at the fantasea housing when i started out , another housing may be one made by "fisheye" a japanese company that does very nice gear

ok here we go
if you want ttl for your strobes you need to buy a ikelite housing with ikelite strobes, that means your strobes are electric fired from your camera and your camera selects the strrobe output

if you use the fantasea you will be able to fire the strobes via fibre optic cable attached to the outside of your camera , if u use inon strobes they offer sttl which works quite well i believe.this meand the strobe selects the strobe output.

with either of these options you can shoot manual with u setting the strobes output .
bit confusing eh

i use a ike housing with inon strobes i fire my primary strobe via electic or sync cable manually setting the strobe out put , i then slave a 2nd strobe off my primary strobe via fibre optic cable .
for me this works well.

i find the ikelite housings work well , they are solid , almost brick like with a thick walled housing and tried and tested buttons which they use on all their housings from campact to dslr housings . there not pretty but they work .

whatever housing you get make shure it takes ad on lenses if it doesent i suggest dont buy it , for me ad on lenses give me the versility to take a wide variety of photos , form wide angle to macro and super macro .
you dont have to purchace all the lenses first up , just as long as you can get them later on. i use inon lenses and im very happy with them and am getting pleasing results .

strobes you may gues but i really like my inon strobes , they are reliable and they work , one of my strobes is 5 years old and has probally done 700 dives and its still going strong. also look at the sea&sea strobes , ikelite strobes are good also. just find what works for you.

hope this helps , if you click on the link to my flickr page you can see the results i get with my setup.

Regards
Matt

jugglematt
02-08-2009, 00:46
oh and strobe arms.............
ultraligh
or inon

not ikelite

any strobe arm you choose must have a oring on the ball part , this makes it better to use above and below the water and allows for fine movement of the arms , dont consider any strobe arm without a oring on the ball

regards
Matt

scubadiver888
02-08-2009, 10:05
Thanks Matt. I was going to get the Ikelite arms but maybe I'll shop around some more. Initial plan is to buy the housing unit with no strobes. See how bad it looks. Maybe strap a dive light on the handle and see how video works with that. When I have saved a little more money I'll look into strobes, arms and lighting. Now I'll add lens as well.

My wife is going to kill me.

Nemrod
02-08-2009, 12:27
Fisheye makes an aluminum housing for the P6000 and so does Patima.

N

DevilDiver
02-08-2009, 12:42
Fisheye makes an aluminum housing for the P6000 and so does Patima.

N

Do you have a link for these housings? I could not find them on the Fisheye or Patima webpages...

Thanks....

jugglematt
02-08-2009, 13:30
ultralight,,,,, (Search on the internet) will have every adaptor you will need , so u can go from your ikelite or any other base plate to the ultralight arms ect .

fisheye housing would be nice ,their equipment looks good. it would be priced higher than he ikelite but would be much more ergonomic ,and better in the hand on the video link posted below they said it would be out in december 2008 , so why not email them at their and see if its available

link to the video (posted on wetpixel)
DEMA 2008: Fisheye and Seatool (with interview) :: Wetpixel.com (http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dema-2008-fisheye-and-seatool-with-interview/)

best of luck
Matt

DevilDiver
02-08-2009, 13:40
ultralight,,,,, (Search on the internet) will have every adaptor you will need , so u can go from your ikelite or any other base plate to the ultralight arms ect .

fisheye housing would be nice ,their equipment looks good. it would be priced higher than he ikelite but would be much more ergonomic ,and better in the hand on the video link posted below they said it would be out in december 2008 , so why not email them at their and see if its available

link to the video (posted on wetpixel)
DEMA 2008: Fisheye and Seatool (with interview) :: Wetpixel.com (http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dema-2008-fisheye-and-seatool-with-interview/)

best of luck
Matt

Thanks Matt!!

Looks like a nice housing!

Nemrod
02-08-2009, 19:30
Fisheye FIX NP6000 Housing for Nikon P6000 (http://www.backscatter.com/HostedStore.LassoApp?-ResponseLassoApp=detail.lasso&ID=61c9e01abbf838c2&s1op=cn&s2op=cn&s2=photo&s6op=cn&s6=shop&sop=AND)

N

DevilDiver
02-08-2009, 19:35
Fisheye FIX NP6000 Housing for Nikon P6000 (http://www.backscatter.com/HostedStore.LassoApp?-ResponseLassoApp=detail.lasso&ID=61c9e01abbf838c2&s1op=cn&s2op=cn&s2=photo&s6op=cn&s6=shop&sop=AND)

N

Wow, that is one clean looking housing! I wonder why they do not have it listed on the Fisheye webpage........

Thanks!!

scubadiver888
02-08-2009, 22:37
Fisheye makes an aluminum housing for the P6000 and so does Patima.

N
Thanks Nemrod. I tried looking at the Patima website but it is totally messed up. I'm guessing they have optimized the website to be really cool and neat looking but assume everyone is using Internet Explorer. I sent the company and web administrator a snapshot of how bad their website looks on a Mac.

According to the Fisheye website, the P6000 body isn't out yet. They are expecting it out this month.

scubadiver888
02-08-2009, 22:39
Fisheye FIX NP6000 Housing for Nikon P6000 (http://www.backscatter.com/HostedStore.LassoApp?-ResponseLassoApp=detail.lasso&ID=61c9e01abbf838c2&s1op=cn&s2op=cn&s2=photo&s6op=cn&s6=shop&sop=AND)

N

Wow, that is one clean looking housing! I wonder why they do not have it listed on the Fisheye webpage........

Thanks!!
It isn't out yet but it is mentioned on the Japanese website. Check out Fisheye NP6000 (http://www.fisheye-jp.com/np6000/index.html) for more details, or in English (translated by Google) at here (http://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.fisheye-jp.com/lineup/camera/index.html&ei=V7SPSfb6EoS4MffSiakL&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsite:www.fisheye-jp.com%2BNikon%2BP6000%26hl%3Den%26newwindow%3D1%2 6safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3Dia3%26sa%3DG). Looks like it is going to be around $900-$1000.