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CFDAlden
04-02-2009, 02:36
Quick question. I was given a LP 72 made in 74, from what I can tell.

I have a top line of 11 74 K3AA2250 (manuf 11/1974 2250 fill pressure)
Below that is 12 3 K123911 (guessing the serial number here)

Then below the s/n is USD (US Divers, again, a guess)

Then below that is 2070+ (Plus rated??)

There are also 3 hydro markings on the tank.

There may be more markings, but the tank was painted at some point in the past.

Am I translating this right?

The tank is under pressure, with a J valve. A couple places where the paint has chipped away has very minor surface rust.

Should I have the tank stripped before sending it off for a hydro and vis?

Thanks!

cummings66
04-02-2009, 12:09
Technically obscuring markings on a cylinder will make it fail an inspection, so if it is obscured I would certainly strip it first, but be aware that it will rust in the blink of an eye so I'd be prepared to paint it with ZRC when you finish up.

Rainer
04-02-2009, 12:12
Many of these older 72s were galvanized. Is this one? If it is, stripping it should not lead to it 'rusting in the blink of an eye.'

cummings66
04-02-2009, 17:13
That's the nice thing about galvanized cylinders, they're tough and it takes a lot to remove the coating. My LDS had a bunch of them forsale last year at $50 ea with current hydro and VIP, but every single one of them was painted and looked like hell. But, as old as they were no serious rust. Probably like yours some had 3 different colors of paint on them in different spots.

ScaredSilly
04-02-2009, 17:13
I would get it hydro'd before doing anything. One of mine also given to me, of the same vintage just failed.

CFDAlden
04-03-2009, 00:25
I have a friend with a bodyshop, who will strip, and then seal it for me for nothing. I'm dropping it off to him tomorrow, and get it to hydro next week. Hopefully, it will work out. If not, I'm out nothing. :)

The paint on it looks like a latex paint, rolled on. Same style texture. One of the older hydros looks like it was stamped, then someone with a heavy hand on a spray gun laid it on thick. Tank looks like hell, it should clean up nice, though.

UCFKnightDiver
04-03-2009, 06:30
make sure no heat is involved aka baking the paint on.

cummings66
04-03-2009, 20:00
Normal procedure is a quick VIP to see if it's worth sending out for hydro. No sense spending that money if it's going to fail anyways. Plus, just because it passes hydro doesn't mean it will pass the VIP.

For what it's worth, everybody should see a hydro shop in action, pretty neat and not what you would expect.

CFDAlden
04-06-2009, 00:45
It passed a quick and dirty VIP, so off it went for stripping, and sealing. Buddy is going to put a light primer and seal coat on it.

I should have taken some before and after pics. I'll do some after, at least. :)

cummings66
04-06-2009, 17:59
If it's galvanized you don't need to seal it. If it's just paint you would be fine, just be sure all the markings are intact and that you keep a record of paint and technique used. Some shops will not fill a cylinder that's been repainted so if you have one of those kind of shops around I'd also check with them for suggestions so that you don't end up in the cold.

CFDAlden
04-08-2009, 01:17
Not galvanized, as there was a light surface rust where the last hydro was stamped.

cummings66
04-08-2009, 18:01
To be honest, if it was my cylinders I'd get ZRC's paint and use that. Roll a couple coats on and you're good to go, never rust again if you prepped the steel right and it's galvanized this time around. I've dinged mine a few times and scraped the coating accidentally, no issues due to it. Just like a real hot dip galvanized coating, well almost. It's cold.

Otherwise, paint with just a good car paint that doesn't need to be heat cured and you'll be fine. Just check for rust every so often.

CFDAlden
04-15-2009, 16:27
Picked up my tank yesterday. Came out great. I didn't get any before pictures, but he said there was 5 or 6 different layers of color there. If you look back at my first post, there was limited numbers I could see on the thank. Not anymore:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1155.jpg
and
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1156.jpg

Overall shots:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1154.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1157.jpg

Now off to hydro... I'll drop it this weekend.

Rileybri
04-15-2009, 16:47
Picked up my tank yesterday. Came out great. I didn't get any before pictures, but he said there was 5 or 6 different layers of color there. If you look back at my first post, there was limited numbers I could see on the thank. Not anymore:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1155.jpg
and
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1156.jpg

Overall shots:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1154.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o10/CFDAlden/100_1157.jpg

Now off to hydro... I'll drop it this weekend.

Wow it cam out NICE!!!!!! You will have to pass on the shop info to me.......

CFDAlden
04-15-2009, 22:14
Check your PM's, Brian!

Rileybri
04-16-2009, 06:48
Check your PM's, Brian!


Thank you!! have a graphic designer friend working on the pin up as I type this!

Dark Wolf
04-19-2009, 20:55
Very nice looking tank!! Is the J-valve still operational? I have a couple of AL 72's that came with the J-valves. Both still work perfectly. Congrats again, tank looks great!!

DW

CFDAlden
04-20-2009, 10:07
The J Valve did still work, but I'm replacing it with a yolk valve.

I may put it up here for sale, should anyone still want them for collectors items. :)

captain
04-20-2009, 10:21
I never can understand why everyone feels they need to replace a perfectly useable J valve with a K valve when all they have to do is just leave the reserve lever in the down position.

CFDAlden
04-21-2009, 12:28
Because the K valve is free? :)