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scubadiver888
04-18-2010, 17:22
I am getting close to buying my own cylinders. Last time I looked into it, the shops around here were telling me LPs are hard to get so I'll most likely have to go HP. Recently I talked to a shop owner at a swap meet and he said he could get me a LP no problem. He was picking up a batch next month from the distributor.

So now I'm realizing I need to re-consider my cylinder purchase. He had a few good points why I want a LP. His air fill setup would not easily fill an HP to the required 3442 PSI use he ran the compress occasionally. It was fine for filling 3000 PSI (AL80) and had absolutely no problem filling 2640 (LP+) or 2400 (LP).

Additionally, if I needed a quick fill for an HP they could do 3500 PSI (I've noticed a lot of the shops have a top pressure of 3500 PSI) but because it was hot, it would be short when it cooled down. They would often fill LPs hot and then it would cool to 2400 (or 2640 if + was still valid).

This all kind of makes sense to me. Additionally, I've been told the lower pressure is easier on the regulators.

Is there anything I'm missing? I figure an LP108 @ 2400 PSI will have similar air capacity as an HP100 @ 3442. The only difference will be the LP108 is dimensionally bigger and weighs around 4 lbs more out of the water.

jj1987
04-18-2010, 17:38
Around here, we fill LP108/104's to 3600psi, so HP130 vs LP104 end up about the same amount of gas. HP tanks are usually lighter per cuft of gas when compared to LP tanks, but if you're overfilling LP tanks, that doesn't hold true.

jbres1
04-18-2010, 18:42
The LP108 will hold more gas than the HP100 , but it is a larger cylinder and may not trim out as well as the smaller Hp100. Can you try out the sizes you are planning on purchasing. I have some LP85's and some HP100's these two trim out about the same. The LP108's would not be at all like the HP100's.
If you can't get a good fill for the HP cylinders near you, then its a no brainer in favor of the LP cylinders.
Jim Breslin

comet24
04-18-2010, 20:59
The LP 108's will be much bigger tanks. They are 8" tanks vs 7.25" for the HP100. About 2" taller which isn't really a factor but there's a big difference in weight. The LP108's are about 41lb's empty and the HP100 33lb's empty. I dive HP119 which are very close the the LP108's without an issue.

If I could always get "cave fill's" I would go with LP tanks because when pumped they will hold alot of air. Since I can't I went with HP tanks myself.

scubadiver888
04-18-2010, 21:45
Around here, we fill LP108/104's to 3600psi, so HP130 vs LP104 end up about the same amount of gas. HP tanks are usually lighter per cuft of gas when compared to LP tanks, but if you're overfilling LP tanks, that doesn't hold true.

Around here they'll put 2640 in for the first 5 years then only 2400 after that, unless you get them re-plus'd. So I'm looking at them as if for the majority of their life they will be 2400 PSI.


The LP108 will hold more gas than the HP100 , but it is a larger cylinder and may not trim out as well as the smaller Hp100. Can you try out the sizes you are planning on purchasing. I have some LP85's and some HP100's these two trim out about the same. The LP108's would not be at all like the HP100's.
If you can't get a good fill for the HP cylinders near you, then its a no brainer in favor of the LP cylinders.
Jim Breslin

Shops around here won't do a cave fill. For the first five years I'd be looking at 2640 PSI or 108.6 cf. However, after five years they drop to 2400 PSI or 99 cf. So for the majority of the cylinder's life it will be guaranteed to hold 99 cf.

My other thinking is to get an HP100 because it will trim out better. If I get a short fill, i.e. 3000 PSI, it will still work out to 10 cf more than an AL80 and I dive an AL80 now without trouble.

My instructor has HP100s. Maybe I should borrow them and see if I can find someone I can borrow an LP108 from to see how they trim out for me.

comet24
04-18-2010, 22:11
With the fill restriction why not go for a HP119. About that same size and weight as a LP108 but rated to a higher fill pressure. If you only get 3000psi your still get 103cuft of air.

UCFKnightDiver
04-18-2010, 22:36
get a HP130, closer to the same size as 108's I think*

scubadiver888
04-18-2010, 22:57
I remember why I was thinking I wanted the HP100s now. At 3000 PSI they had 10 cf more than an AL80, I could drop around 3 lbs from my weights, it was only 2 lbs heavier out of the water. This would make me 1 lb lighter. It was shorter and should trim out a little better.

Man, shouldn't have let the guy at the show make me second guess myself.

Thanks for jogging my memory everyone.

skdvr
04-19-2010, 06:15
Another thing to remember is that there should be no problem with getting the "+" rating back on a LP cylinder. Shops that do not know better will tell you that it is only good for the first 5 years but that is not true. The other thing is that if they want to do a proper fill and/or you want to get a full tank then they should fill it and wait for it to cool down and then top it off. If you are in a hurry and want to wait for the tank and it comes out a little short well that is one thing, but if shop told me that they would fill it to its rated pressure and then it would be short when I picked it up the next day. I would be talking to another shop.

Phil

cmburch
04-19-2010, 08:50
I have HP100 and HP130.

The HP100 is an ideal tank. It is the same diameter as an AL80, a little shorter and will allow dropping about 4lbs off your belt compared to an Al80. I use this tank most of the time. It is great for hiking our California coastal cliffs to get to the best dive sites.

The HP 130's are monsters. They are heavy and great for boat diving. If your buddy is a small person, forget about hiking with this behemoth tank.

I use to be the first to surface with an AL80. So may need to consider what your buddies are using. If you need to surface with others, there is no sense lugging the extra weight and surfacing with a lot of air left in a larger tank when your buddy with a smaller tank is low on air. I bought two HP130's so a buddy could use one.

For choosing between LP and HP, weight would be a big consideration for me when hiking cliffs and also what my buddies are using.

scubadiver888
04-19-2010, 09:17
Another thing to remember is that there should be no problem with getting the "+" rating back on a LP cylinder. Shops that do not know better will tell you that it is only good for the first 5 years but that is not true. The other thing is that if they want to do a proper fill and/or you want to get a full tank then they should fill it and wait for it to cool down and then top it off. If you are in a hurry and want to wait for the tank and it comes out a little short well that is one thing, but if shop told me that they would fill it to its rated pressure and then it would be short when I picked it up the next day. I would be talking to another shop.

Phil

Where you get your cylinders hydro'd, is there a price difference between getting the + rating re-applied and a regular hydro?

All the shops around here do a proper overnight fill. My problem is I spend more money on gas then I do on the fill if I go to the shop twice. So I'll drop into the shop Saturday morning, get the cylinder filled then head for the dive site before they get a change to top it up.

This is why I decided on the HP100. An HP100 @ 3000 PSI is still 10 cf more than an AL80 and it trims out better. If I know the dive requires a full fill I'd drop the cylinders off on a Thursday and pick it up Saturday morning.

The ultimate goal is to have a few cylinders so I can drop some off for a fill and pick up the cylinders I dropped off the previous weekend. Being unemployed I'm having a hard time get the wife to be okay with buying just two. :smiley36:

UCFKnightDiver
04-19-2010, 11:14
Another thing to remember is that there should be no problem with getting the "+" rating back on a LP cylinder. Shops that do not know better will tell you that it is only good for the first 5 years but that is not true. The other thing is that if they want to do a proper fill and/or you want to get a full tank then they should fill it and wait for it to cool down and then top it off. If you are in a hurry and want to wait for the tank and it comes out a little short well that is one thing, but if shop told me that they would fill it to its rated pressure and then it would be short when I picked it up the next day. I would be talking to another shop.

Phil

Where you get your cylinders hydro'd, is there a price difference between getting the + rating re-applied and a regular hydro?

All the shops around here do a proper overnight fill. My problem is I spend more money on gas then I do on the fill if I go to the shop twice. So I'll drop into the shop Saturday morning, get the cylinder filled then head for the dive site before they get a change to top it up.

This is why I decided on the HP100. An HP100 @ 3000 PSI is still 10 cf more than an AL80 and it trims out better. If I know the dive requires a full fill I'd drop the cylinders off on a Thursday and pick it up Saturday morning.

The ultimate goal is to have a few cylinders so I can drop some off for a fill and pick up the cylinders I dropped off the previous weekend. Being unemployed I'm having a hard time get the wife to be okay with buying just two. :smiley36:

If I got a 3k fill on an HP tank I wouldn't be pleased, also what is an overnight fill? All the shop needs to do is fill it once, let it cool and fill it again shouldn't take that long, or overfill it some, or have a water bath. For example if I want a 3600 fill I'll usually get the tank filled to 3800 so it cools to around 36

skdvr
04-19-2010, 11:29
Where you get your cylinders hydro'd, is there a price difference between getting the + rating re-applied and a regular hydro?

No price difference. It is only a bit of math that needs to be done (from my understanding). On some older tanks it may take a little research to find out the REE code, but other than that there is no extra work involved.



If I got a 3k fill on an HP tank I wouldn't be pleased, also what is an overnight fill? All the shop needs to do is fill it once, let it cool and fill it again shouldn't take that long, or overfill it some, or have a water bath. For example if I want a 3600 fill I'll usually get the tank filled to 3800 so it cools to around 36

I agree that I am not happy when I pick up my HP tanks and they only have 3000 in them. BUT, being outside of FL it is not always easy to get a shop to overfill a tank. Some shops will but only if you are a regular and they know you. If I walk into a shop and ask them to fill 2 HP 100's and I am going to wait for them, then I expect that they will be on the short side. I usually politely ask them to do a nice slow fill and "forget" to pay attention and not realize it until the tanks are around 3600, and that will usually get me to around 3400 when they are cooled off. If they do it great, and if not well that is fine too. Otherwise I just drop them off in the morning and pick them up either the next day or later that same day on my way home from work. I am just lucky that I have several shops around me that are between my office and my house.

Phil

scubadiver888
04-19-2010, 19:08
Another thing to remember is that there should be no problem with getting the "+" rating back on a LP cylinder. Shops that do not know better will tell you that it is only good for the first 5 years but that is not true. The other thing is that if they want to do a proper fill and/or you want to get a full tank then they should fill it and wait for it to cool down and then top it off. If you are in a hurry and want to wait for the tank and it comes out a little short well that is one thing, but if shop told me that they would fill it to its rated pressure and then it would be short when I picked it up the next day. I would be talking to another shop.

Phil

Where you get your cylinders hydro'd, is there a price difference between getting the + rating re-applied and a regular hydro?

All the shops around here do a proper overnight fill. My problem is I spend more money on gas then I do on the fill if I go to the shop twice. So I'll drop into the shop Saturday morning, get the cylinder filled then head for the dive site before they get a change to top it up.

This is why I decided on the HP100. An HP100 @ 3000 PSI is still 10 cf more than an AL80 and it trims out better. If I know the dive requires a full fill I'd drop the cylinders off on a Thursday and pick it up Saturday morning.

The ultimate goal is to have a few cylinders so I can drop some off for a fill and pick up the cylinders I dropped off the previous weekend. Being unemployed I'm having a hard time get the wife to be okay with buying just two. :smiley36:

If I got a 3k fill on an HP tank I wouldn't be pleased, also what is an overnight fill? All the shop needs to do is fill it once, let it cool and fill it again shouldn't take that long, or overfill it some, or have a water bath. For example if I want a 3600 fill I'll usually get the tank filled to 3800 so it cools to around 36

An overnight fill is, you bring your cylinder to the shop leave it overnight and pick it up the next day. Realistically, you could drop off the cylinder in the morning and come back a little later to pick it up. The most convenient shops for me are often staffed by one. If the store is busy they have to wait until they have a moment to fill the cylinders. It is easiest to just leave the cylinder and pick it up the next day.

I know when I'm out at Kingston, ON we can get the cylinders filled while we wait. There is a lot more diving out that way so the shops are busy enough to have more than one person running the shop.

scubadiver888
04-21-2010, 20:55
Went to a shop I hadn't purchased anything from for years. They had an HP119 floor model they were selling for 35% off. It only has 4 years until it requires a hydro but I got the cylinder with a full fill EAN40 for less than I could have bought an HP100. Best thing is the shop typically has 3 or more people working so I got the thing filled while I waited.

tk trekers
05-01-2010, 17:19
Where you get your cylinders hydro'd, is there a price difference between getting the + rating re-applied and a regular hydro?

I purchased a Faber LP108 needing a hydro for $90 a few weeks ago, just picked it up today from the LDS and the "+" was done with the hydro at no additional charge.

vegas911diver
05-01-2010, 22:30
The rules have changed and tanks can be restamped with a "+" rating on the new hydro. A tank undergoing hydro is filled to 5/3 its working pressure. So a standard aluminum 80 will be pressureized during hydro testing to 5000psi. The expansion and elasticity of the metal is checked using a displacement method and if it falls within tolerance, the it will pass. This goes for the same that are recieving a "+" rating

scubadiver888
05-02-2010, 05:49
The rules have changed and tanks can be restamped with a "+" rating on the new hydro. A tank undergoing hydro is filled to 5/3 its working pressure. So a standard aluminum 80 will be pressureized during hydro testing to 5000psi. The expansion and elasticity of the metal is checked using a displacement method and if it falls within tolerance, the it will pass. This goes for the same that are recieving a "+" rating

I knew the 5/3 rule. So if I have a LP, which is 2400 without the + and 2640 with the +, would they pressurize it to 4000 (5/3 * 2400), see if it passed. If it passed, pressurize it to 4400 (5/3 * 2640), see if it passed, add a + if it does?

in_cavediver
05-02-2010, 09:01
OK - I am not an expert on hydro rules but I am fairly well informed.

First - the hydro test procedure is detailed in the classification or exemption paperwork for the tanks. For instance:

For 3AL AL tanks, the hydro pressure is 5/3 working pressure. There is no provision for a '+' rating. For 3AA steels, they have a provision for a '+' rating. Exemption tanks - they can have different pressures (not 5/3rs) for hydro.

As for steels - there is a process (don't have the docs handy) to test to the '+' level. Any 3AA steel tank can be tested to the '+' level at any time. So, you can go '+' for 5 years, no plus for 5yrs and then '+' again with the next hydro.

Also, interestingly enough - if you have an exemption tank (such as the 3442 HP's), you can only keep them in service when the exemption is kept current. There are a fair number of older Al tanks from the 70's that have expired exemptions and cannot be hydro'd or put into service. A few years back, there was a concern with the PST 3500psi HP tanks exemption expiring and the company not renewing it. It did get renewed but it scared quite a few divers.

Lulubelle
05-02-2010, 10:09
I remember why I was thinking I wanted the HP100s now. At 3000 PSI they had 10 cf more than an AL80, I could drop around 3 lbs from my weights, it was only 2 lbs heavier out of the water. This would make me 1 lb lighter. It was shorter and should trim out a little better.

Man, shouldn't have let the guy at the show make me second guess myself.

Thanks for jogging my memory everyone.

I'm no tank expert, but I tried out some different ones before I bought my HP 100s. I hated the LP108s. I dropped what I was told was an appropriate amount of weight but was still way heavy. Lucky for me my inflator valve was stuck on open that dive just to make it a little more fun. I am 5'10" and it was too long and I had a difficult time with my trim. The thing was just too big. I love the HP 100s. I dropped all of my lead and my trim is great with them. Only think I hate is that I come up with half of my tank.

scubadiver888
05-02-2010, 12:50
OK - I am not an expert on hydro rules but I am fairly well informed.

First - the hydro test procedure is detailed in the classification or exemption paperwork for the tanks. For instance:

For 3AL AL tanks, the hydro pressure is 5/3 working pressure. There is no provision for a '+' rating. For 3AA steels, they have a provision for a '+' rating. Exemption tanks - they can have different pressures (not 5/3rs) for hydro.

As for steels - there is a process (don't have the docs handy) to test to the '+' level. Any 3AA steel tank can be tested to the '+' level at any time. So, you can go '+' for 5 years, no plus for 5yrs and then '+' again with the next hydro.

Also, interestingly enough - if you have an exemption tank (such as the 3442 HP's), you can only keep them in service when the exemption is kept current. There are a fair number of older Al tanks from the 70's that have expired exemptions and cannot be hydro'd or put into service. A few years back, there was a concern with the PST 3500psi HP tanks exemption expiring and the company not renewing it. It did get renewed but it scared quite a few divers.

Hmm, I learned something new. This is a good day. Thanks in_cavediver. :smiley20:

scubadiver888
05-02-2010, 13:03
I remember why I was thinking I wanted the HP100s now. At 3000 PSI they had 10 cf more than an AL80, I could drop around 3 lbs from my weights, it was only 2 lbs heavier out of the water. This would make me 1 lb lighter. It was shorter and should trim out a little better.

Man, shouldn't have let the guy at the show make me second guess myself.

Thanks for jogging my memory everyone.

I'm no tank expert, but I tried out some different ones before I bought my HP 100s. I hated the LP108s. I dropped what I was told was an appropriate amount of weight but was still way heavy. Lucky for me my inflator valve was stuck on open that dive just to make it a little more fun. I am 5'10" and it was too long and I had a difficult time with my trim. The thing was just too big. I love the HP 100s. I dropped all of my lead and my trim is great with them. Only think I hate is that I come up with half of my tank.

Yeah, the HP100s rock. If you learned using the AL80 then switching to the HP100 is seamless. Compared to the AL80:


They are 2" shorter.
They hold 22.6 cubic feet more gas.
Even at 3000 PSI they hold 10 cubic feet more gas.
They are only 2 lbs heavier out of the water.
You can drop 5 lbs from your weight belt.
This means your overall gear is 3 lbs lighter out of the water.


I couldn't find any major down side when compared to the AL80. The only reason I got an HP119 is because it was on sale (it was the Scot in me; couldn't pass up a bargain). The HP119 is nice too, it is still shorter than an AL80, holds 123 cubic feet of gas, even at 3000 PSI it holds 107 cubic feet of gas. The downside is it is 11 lbs heavier than an AL80 out of the water. So your overall gear weight out of the water is 6 lbs heavier (plus all that extra air).

I can see how the LP108s wouldn't work for you. They are a LOT heavier than even the HP119.

As soon as I have a job again, I'm going to start looking for some HP100s. Actually, the shop I got the HP119 from has a set of double HP100 they are selling for 35% off. I can get the two cylinders plus bands and manifolds for less money than just the cylinders. Hopefully they still have them. Maybe they'll drop a little more in price. :)

navyhmc
05-02-2010, 13:23
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

in_cavediver
05-02-2010, 13:32
I have 104's and 85's. The OBVIOUS answer is to simply get 2 of each!!

scubadiver888
05-02-2010, 14:01
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

You wear double HP120s?!?!! :smiley11: Those are monstrous. You are looking at 76 lbs of cylinder with a length of 28". I'd think doubling HP119s would make more sense. They hold 123 cubic feet (rather than 120.6) each, they are 24" long. It does add another 8 lbs out of the water. If you prefer the HP120 you must be 6' 3" or something.

navyhmc
05-02-2010, 15:07
5'7" actually...I make it work.

Lulubelle
05-02-2010, 20:12
I remember why I was thinking I wanted the HP100s now. At 3000 PSI they had 10 cf more than an AL80, I could drop around 3 lbs from my weights, it was only 2 lbs heavier out of the water. This would make me 1 lb lighter. It was shorter and should trim out a little better.

Man, shouldn't have let the guy at the show make me second guess myself.

Thanks for jogging my memory everyone.

I'm no tank expert, but I tried out some different ones before I bought my HP 100s. I hated the LP108s. I dropped what I was told was an appropriate amount of weight but was still way heavy. Lucky for me my inflator valve was stuck on open that dive just to make it a little more fun. I am 5'10" and it was too long and I had a difficult time with my trim. The thing was just too big. I love the HP 100s. I dropped all of my lead and my trim is great with them. Only think I hate is that I come up with half of my tank.

Yeah, the HP100s rock. If you learned using the AL80 then switching to the HP100 is seamless. Compared to the AL80:

They are 2" shorter.
They hold 22.6 cubic feet more gas.
Even at 3000 PSI they hold 10 cubic feet more gas.
They are only 2 lbs heavier out of the water.
You can drop 5 lbs from your weight belt.
This means your overall gear is 3 lbs lighter out of the water.
I couldn't find any major down side when compared to the AL80. The only reason I got an HP119 is because it was on sale (it was the Scot in me; couldn't pass up a bargain). The HP119 is nice too, it is still shorter than an AL80, holds 123 cubic feet of gas, even at 3000 PSI it holds 107 cubic feet of gas. The downside is it is 11 lbs heavier than an AL80 out of the water. So your overall gear weight out of the water is 6 lbs heavier (plus all that extra air).

I can see how the LP108s wouldn't work for you. They are a LOT heavier than even the HP119.

As soon as I have a job again, I'm going to start looking for some HP100s. Actually, the shop I got the HP119 from has a set of double HP100 they are selling for 35% off. I can get the two cylinders plus bands and manifolds for less money than just the cylinders. Hopefully they still have them. Maybe they'll drop a little more in price. :)

I dropped 12 pounds. But then again, in our currents, it takes some lead to be weighted properly at the safety stop with an AL80.

fire diver
05-02-2010, 20:38
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

You wear double HP120s?!?!! :smiley11: Those are monstrous. You are looking at 76 lbs of cylinder with a length of 28". I'd think doubling HP119s would make more sense. They hold 123 cubic feet (rather than 120.6) each, they are 24" long. It does add another 8 lbs out of the water. If you prefer the HP120 you must be 6' 3" or something.

He's just too stubborn to let it NOT work for him. :smiley20:

in_cavediver
05-02-2010, 20:44
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

You wear double HP120s?!?!! :smiley11: Those are monstrous. You are looking at 76 lbs of cylinder with a length of 28". I'd think doubling HP119s would make more sense. They hold 123 cubic feet (rather than 120.6) each, they are 24" long. It does add another 8 lbs out of the water. If you prefer the HP120 you must be 6' 3" or something.

I'm 5'10" and would dive doubled OMS LP131's if I had them......

Lets see - with a cave fill that would be 375cft of gas! I have to settle for my 104's with a measly 300cft or so.:smiley19:

navyhmc
05-02-2010, 20:48
If you used the LP121's, you'd get 313 cu ft with a 3442 cave fill.

UCFKnightDiver
05-02-2010, 20:52
If you used the LP121's, you'd get 313 cu ft with a 3442 cave fill.

A cave fill is more commonly 3600 making your 1/3rd 1200

scubadiver888
05-02-2010, 20:54
5'7" actually...I make it work.

Hmm, I guess you aren't putting these on sitting down. I'm 6'0" and I strap in sitting down (cylinders are in a holder with a seat in front of them). Even with an AL80 I find I have to re-adjust a little once I stand up. The HP100 and HP119 are nice because I can get them on while seated.

navyhmc
05-02-2010, 21:05
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

You wear double HP120s?!?!! :smiley11: Those are monstrous. You are looking at 76 lbs of cylinder with a length of 28". I'd think doubling HP119s would make more sense. They hold 123 cubic feet (rather than 120.6) each, they are 24" long. It does add another 8 lbs out of the water. If you prefer the HP120 you must be 6' 3" or something.

He's just too stubborn to let it NOT work for him. :smiley20:

Absolutely!!!! :smiley20: :smilie39: :smiley20:



5'7" actually...I make it work.

Hmm, I guess you aren't putting these on sitting down. I'm 6'0" and I strap in sitting down (cylinders are in a holder with a seat in front of them). Even with an AL80 I find I have to re-adjust a little once I stand up. The HP100 and HP119 are nice because I can get them on while seated.

Actually, I do. I have a Dive Rite Transplate Harness that I have loosened up, slide into the harness and stand up. I then tighten up the sholder straps and the fasten the waist strap. Work quite well.

scubadiver888
05-03-2010, 08:32
I really can't join the HP100/LP108 debate, I use either HP 120's doubled or a LP121. You want to talk about a monster! the 121 is almost a s big as my son.

You wear double HP120s?!?!! :smiley11: Those are monstrous. You are looking at 76 lbs of cylinder with a length of 28". I'd think doubling HP119s would make more sense. They hold 123 cubic feet (rather than 120.6) each, they are 24" long. It does add another 8 lbs out of the water. If you prefer the HP120 you must be 6' 3" or something.

He's just too stubborn to let it NOT work for him. :smiley20:

Absolutely!!!! :smiley20: :smilie39: :smiley20:



5'7" actually...I make it work.

Hmm, I guess you aren't putting these on sitting down. I'm 6'0" and I strap in sitting down (cylinders are in a holder with a seat in front of them). Even with an AL80 I find I have to re-adjust a little once I stand up. The HP100 and HP119 are nice because I can get them on while seated.

Actually, I do. I have a Dive Rite Transplate Harness that I have loosened up, slide into the harness and stand up. I then tighten up the sholder straps and the fasten the waist strap. Work quite well.

That makes more sense. I was picturing trying to do it with a hog harness. Shoulder straps wouldn't be adjustable while you are wearing it.