Roatan, Honduras Trip Report - June 2007

[rainmaker]

After departing from Charlotte, NC , I arrived in Roatan, Honduras via a direct flight on Continental Airlines from Houston on June 3. During the next 13 days, I made a total of 26 dives, all with Coconut Tree Divers. Roatan diving is diverse, and when the trip was over, I felt that the dives that I'd made there represented the best and most enjoyable diving that I've done so far.

Even though the diving was great, I can't really say that Honduras is my all-time favorite international destination. The scene at the airport (both arriving and departing) was hot, uncomfortable and chaotic. The airport is not air-conditioned and there was very little ventilation. When I left on June 17, the flight was delayed several hours, and many people were suffering from the heat. A few people looked like they were about to pass out (no one could go outside without "backtracking" through Security, and the glass doors at the boarding gate were locked). Also, the departure tax of $32.00 (or $33.19, depending on where passengers are going) didn't do anything to improve anyone's mood. Before I left for this trip, I noticed that an on-line newspaper (Bay Islands Voice) said that except for the way that visitors are treated at the airport, Roatan would probably be overrun with foreign tourists. I agree.

Electricity was out numerous times and I was told by several locals that problems with the local electric company were ongoing, but that service was improving. Garbage collection also left a lot to be desired. In the tropical heat, the smell of rotting garbage left in bags alongside sandy "Main Street" in West End was, at times, very strong. I realize I was in the Third World, but other Caribbean countries where I've dived have done better than Honduras at providing basic services.

On the plus side, most of the locals were friendly and helpful and almost everyone who works in the tourist industry speaks at least a little English. Even though I did a lot of walking around alone after dark, I never felt uncomfortable or threatened. Except for taxis, (about $20 for the 15 minute trip to West End) I found most prices to be reasonable. Basic lodging (no air conditioning) with private bath and warm water showers is available for about $25 - $30 per night, quality diving starts at $20 per tank (if you furnish your own gear), and meals can be purchased for $6 - $10 each. There are several ATM's, small grocery stores and Internet Cafes. Unlimited access to the Internet (for two weeks) is available for $10. There are also a lot of bars, but they didn't seem to be doing much business when I was there.

This two-week trip was done on a budget. My 26 dives cost $520, the airfare was about $630 and my share of the lodging was $175 (total of $350 for two weeks was split between my brother and me), for a total of $1325. Also, I managed to eat for about $10 per day. I brought a small percolator in my checked baggage, and made coffee each morning in our room. Honduran coffee is delicious. My breakfasts usually consisted of fruit (apples or bananas) and breakfast bars and coffee. Lunch was more fruit and some kind of chips with a cold drink. Suppers were purchased at moderately priced local restaurants (Rudy's, Creole's Rotisserie Chicken and the Viet Namese/Thai place across from Reef Glider's Dive Shop) for $6 - $7 each.

The exchange rate seemed to vary a bit while we were there. Generally, it was about 19 Lempira = $1 US. If you pay for something with US dollars, you'll most likely receive change in Lempiras. On my next trip, I'll always check on the establishment's exchange rate before I pay for something with dollars.

I was glad that I brought a good supply of anti-diarrhea pills and 100% DEET. The bugs can get quite bothersome, and I was home about a week before my digestive system returned to normal.

The photos for this trip are located at http://www.flickr.com/photos/rainmak...7600490373513/.

My 2007 Honduras video (compilation of still-shots set to music) at YouTube is here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrbIqRXYdSk

Additional information concerning diving and lodging is shown below:

Diving:

All my dives were made with Coconut Tree Divers in West End. They are located right on Half Moon Bay. The cost of each dive was $20 ($25 for those who use rental gear) and this included taxes. My total bill was $520 (26 x $20 = $520); there were no surprises.

Diving in Roatan is a wonderful experience, and there is much to see. There are deep wreck dives, wall dives, shark dives and "glide and relax" shallow coral reef dives. The coral is generally in good condition, however, with the exception of Goliath grouper, I didn't see any large marine wildlife. However, there are lots of turtles, lobsters, Moray eels, rays, and a few Nurse sharks. I also saw one octopus and a couple of large crabs. At West End Wall, where the Caribbean and Atlantic currents merge, we were practically swarmed by schools of colorful tropicals.

I was very satisfied with Coconut Tree Divers. They are very safety conscious and their divemasters are great. I was expected to set up my own gear and to transfer it to a fresh tank between dives, but at $20 per dive, I didn't mind. Ice water was provided on the boat, but not snacks or towels.

The first dive of the day was usually at a depth of 100 to 115 ft. and lasted 40 - 50 minutes. The second dive was usually 40 - 65 ft., and lasted 45 - 60 minutes. Advanced divers and newly certified divers use different boats. The less experienced divers go out on the afternoon boat, and the advanced divers use the morning boat. This generally worked well. However, even though I was on the boat with the advanced divers, usually I ended my dives with 1000 - 1200 psi. in my tank. All dives were led by a divemaster, and everyone was expected to end their dive at the same time. Except for several of the divemaster trainees getting a bit overzealous at "rule enforcement", I thoroughly enjoyed diving with Coconut Tree Divers. Their website is located at http://www.coconuttreedivers.com/main/index.php. I will definitely use them again on my next trip to Roatan.

To see information about the individual dives that I made on this trip, see dives 289 - 314 at my dive log page located at http://www.trailquest.net/scubalog.html.

Lodging:

I stayed at Hidden Garden Cabins and was generally satisfied with the accommodations. The place is a bit off the beaten path, and I found out the hard way that most of the taxi drivers at the airport don't know where it is. To get there, go to West End and then turn left (no right turn is available, unless you want to get wet) off the main beach road onto the side-street that runs between Pura Vida Restaurant and Pura Vida Dive Shop. Just past the Mariposa Lodge, take a sharp right. Follow the road about a hundred yards/meters until it goes sharply downhill. At the bottom of the hill, you'll see the locked gate and sign for Hidden Garden Cabins.

The cabins are large, airy, spacious and clean. Hot water was plentiful and my bed was very comfortable. My cabin had a private bath with shower,a small dinette set, oven/range, kitchen sink and a refrigerator/freezer, along with basic kitchen utensils and pots and pans. Bottled water was also furnished at no extra charge. However, there were no curtains on the windows, which really affected privacy. Also, the neighborhood was very noisy with crying babies, barking dogs and loud TV's interfering with a good night's sleep on a regular basis. Walking back to my cabin in total darkness on a night when the power was out is not an experience that I want to repeat (I brought a small flashlight with me, but on this particular night the battery died). There was no air conditioning, but a ceiling fan and large windows kept temperatures somewhat bearable (but not what I'd call "comfortable") during the heat of the day.

The place is very secure. Each cabin has security bars on the windows and a heavy security door. The security door has iron bars and 2 large padlocks and is in front of a regular wooden door that has a separate lock. In addition, there is a locked gate at the entrance to the grounds. It took a total of 4 keys to gain entrance to my cabin. There is also a night watchman. However, no maid service was provided. Two sets of towels and sheets were provided, and there is a washing machine and clothes line on the premises for guests to use (no charge to use the washing machine, but soap is not furnished).

My cabin cost a total of $175 per week for my brother and me (same charge for one or two persons), and we stayed two weeks. However, I believe that the low-season price has been increased to $200 per week. I might stay at Hidden Garden Cabins again, however, next time I may look for a place that has a back-up generator, and is closer to the beach and business area. Hidden Garden Cabins website is located at http://www.hiddengardencabins.com/index.php.

[SoSiouxme]

Wow...what a great trip report. Roatan is one of my favorite places to dive and Coconut Tree is my dive op of choice.
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<DIV>Sounds like you had a great time!</DIV>
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<DIV>Thanks for giving us the 4-1-1. </DIV>
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<DIV>--Sioux</DIV>

[cutter77]

I especially appreciated the cost breakdown on your trip. It was very helpful in obtaining a "ball park figure" since we've got Roatan on our short list and we're budget divers. Thanks for including it.

[przeor]

if you thought Roatan's airport was bad, you should see utila's
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<DIV>http://www.roatansaltnpepper.com/ima...irport-big.jpg</DIV>
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[rainmaker]

What a photo!
However, I see at least 3 advantages to Utila International Airport, over Roatan International Airport.
At Utila, ventilation seems to be a lot better. Also, getting through security should be a lot easier and quicker, and apparently there is no one collecting $33.19 in departure taxes.

[Itsjustme0770]

Except no direct flights from the states to Utila..... wait, that's a good thing. The airports are a microcasm of how different the two islands are, but good things to be said about both for sure. Great trip report!

[CompuDude]

Sounds very interesting! Roatan is on my short list for next year.

This is where you lost me, though: "However, even though I was on the boat with the advanced divers,
usually I ended my dives with 1000 - 1200 psi. in my tank. All dives
were led by a divemaster, and everyone was expected to end their dive
at the same time."

That's one dive op to cross off my list...

[jacewindu]

sounds fantastic. can't wait to go there myself!

[the gooch]

I went to Roatan for my honeymoon and had a blast. I dove with West End divers the first day and then Bananarama the rest of the time I was there. I rented a house on the beach in West Bay village and had a fantastic time there. Most of my dives were with at most 6 people on a big Newton dive boat. Our DM was awesome and we hung out at the purple tortoise for drinks a few times at night.

I will definitely visit Roatan again. ---BTW did you get a smoothie from Rudy's? yummmmm

[the gooch]

oh yeah---the cactus juice bug gel they sell over there works awesome and is all natural and it's best to take a shot of pepto every morning ---just don't get scared at the color of mr. hanky[img]smileys/smiley36.gif[/img]