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#1 (permalink) |
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TadPole
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Newbie questions
Ok, so I'm a brand spanking newbie, just barely starting classes. Obviously, I've been told to get mask, fins, snorkel. I've found out the hard way that doing some due diligence and research before making any purchases when I get involved in any 'gear-related' activity saves me from ending up with gear that is either not as good as what I could have gotten for the investment, or worse, inappropriate for what I want to do.
During my searches so far to try and choose appropriate gear, I've come across some info on DIR, and though I haven't dug too deeply into learning about it, I think I have the general idea. My understanding of it is that it takes the KISS principle to heart and tries to ensure that gear and skills are solid, functional, dependable and safe. Cave diving is mentioned and I understand immediately the concept that I want multiple sources of light (in multiple locations, spare batteries, sturdy clothes, and a helmet, etc. I'm not sure what direction I may go in diving after I get my certification, but I can see that it makes a lot of sense for me to make my purchases so that my gear is following DIR standards (guidelines?). With that in mind, I ended up buying a set of Scubapro Jets against the advice of one LDS I'd checked with. From the reviews I've seen online, it appears that it's difficult to go wrong with them, though the guy at the LDS said that longer fins would be faster and take less effort. Personally I don't care about speed and my leg strength is better than average, so I think I made the right choice. I've just about settled on a mask. The Atomic Frameless mid sized one fits like the facehugger alien in the Alien movie and has fantastic visibility. I've been figuring on getting a black skirt because I see that although they may give a touch of tunnel vision, they cut down on glare and that's usually important to me. I wear wrap sunglasses for the same reason. But in doing some further research, it appears that there's some discussion about a black skirt being preferable/required for DIR gear as well. That made me think that before I proceeded much further, I should probably ask and see if I was on the right track and ask for advice. I can see that I'll need to go the BP/W route, but I'm not going to worry about that until later, and by then I'm sure I'll have looked a bit deeper into it. What I'm basically wondering about is whether there's anything I should be aware of regarding my current gear or next few basic purchases (snorkel, wetsuit, etc), or anything I'm totally missing. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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You are doing great !!!!!! Well done !!!
You will use the jets for evermore Black skirt is good.Will not discolor. Buy the cheapest snorkle you can find. You will never use it again after class. A wetsuit is a wetsuit. Buy one. Dive shops have little reason to sell good gear as they only get one sale that way ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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TadPole
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I've actually already got a couple of wetsuits (shorty & a full) that I use for kayaking, but evidently I need a thicker one for the quarries around here (Ohio), at least for late spring. My little 3/2's won't cut it.
What are likely to be my next purchases if I'm trying to stay in a budget and walk before I run, and what should I look for? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Guppy
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First of all you have plenty of time and it sounds like your taking enough time to do the necessary research. I believe that the big associations that teach true technical diving, TDI & GUE are two, require a certain amount of logged dives before you can enroll. If tech diving is truly what you want to get into...visit
The Deco Stop It's a forum devoted to tech diving. Another very informative site: DIR-diver.com - What's new I see your from ohio and would most likely doing all your dives in cold water...No sense in waiting to buy a dry suit. They can be used very comfortably in northern Wisconsin in the middle of the summer where at 66 feet I felt the second thermocline hit a whopping forty degrees in July, or in January when the water temp might reach 35 degrees. since I got my dry suit, I haven't worn my wetsuit. If tech is your direction, you might as well stick to the DIR guidelines. Then you can listen to people ask you why your reg hose is 7 feet long while your in the Bahamas. ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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Mask, Snorkel, Wet Suit, gloves, booties, weight belt
The clear silicon on my mask and snorkel has yellowed. Next time I will buy black for both - for me it is just cosmetics. I try on different masks to see which one I can see out of the best and if it fits by forming a small suction when I gently press it against my face. I like a purge on my mask (not needed), a low volume, the best view, and an easy nose pinch. A good adjustable strap mechanism is also nice.
For a snorkel, I like: a. flex, so when I spit it out it is out of my way. b. a low profile bottom purge, so it is easy to clear. c. a small well fitting mouthpiece, so it is comfortable. d. a low profile top deflector, to minimize the saltwater coming into the tube and minimized the deflector getting hung up in kelp. I will probably get a $30 Mares Hydrex Superdry Flex Snorkel or Tusa Platina II Hyperdry Snorkel. I currently have a 10 year old Tusa that is comfortable but ugly yellow. I have the snorkel in my mouth kicking out and kicking in as well as when I am freediving. So a comfortable mouthpiece and less swallowing of saltwater is a plus. Some of the biggest ling cods have been sitting underneath me when I kicked in with a stringer of bleeding fish. I am usually looking down with my snorkel in my mouth for the opportunity of a fish, a dungeness crab, or an abalone depending on the season. My first wetsuit was a 7mm Farmer John - warm, but constricting. (Pacific Ocean 48-54F water temp) I have gone with a one piece XCEL brand Polar multi-thickness $350. It has an integrated hood, special lining and ankle zippers to ease in changing and a front chest zipper (not that easy to zip/unzip). It has some special fabric around the wrist and other openings to prevent water coming in. So I choose a wetsuit for the fit and comfort in the water (warmth, freedom of movement) and ease of changing. The Farmer John was nice because I carried the top on hikes or kayaking and put it on just before getting into the water. Now I peel the one piece down, so the hood and one arm is off so I do not overheat. Booties - I get the zipper type (easy on/off) with thickest sole for hiking, but this can cause cramping when kicking because it is not very flexible. So warmth and flexibility are considerations. I have 2 sets of gloves different lengths and thicknesses - I go for the warmth, best feel and grip, and not too constricting. My current weight belt XS SCUBA with lead shot weight and steel buckle is comfortable and secure. My current BC Dive Rite Transplate/Oxycheq Mach V Extreme Bladder $700 way too expensive. There are many nice BCs - I would just make sure it meets my needs such as comfort, tank is secure - doesn't shift, and well made. I have 3 different UK flashlights, small 4AA strapped to my speargun to see under dark rocks and boulders. When nightdiving, I have a 4C strapped to my BC and a large 4D on my wrist. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Barracuda
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Fundamentally, I suggest following the more general Hogarthian ideas for gear. The differences between hog and GUE when talking gear is minor at best. So much so that the founder of GUE has an article detailing HIS hog rig in my IANTD encyclopedia of technical diving. At the OW level, you'll never know the difference. Even more, by the time you want to go tec, you end up owning multiple sets of the basics anyway. I personally use three different sets of fins (all blades/jets), have three masks and likely would have to buy a snorkel.
GUE/DIR is more of a philosophy bread out of cave diving and the WKPP. It is one specific approach but by no means the only approach. When you are ready to start looking at tec diving, you'll have a better grasp of what philosophies make sense to you. You'll also realize the gear component is really a very small bit and the details of mask skirt color really don't matter (and all of the other minutia some like to argue). Don't forget the most important part - HAVE FUN and ENJOY your dives. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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TadPole
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Quote:
![]() Thank you all for the replies. There is a lot of info to digest. It looks like I'm on the right track though. I just want to make sure that inexperience doesn't cause me to make choices that I'll regret later. Like spending my budgeted money on a pair of split fins, and then finding out later that they present an entanglement issue or are not as good in current, etc. At this point in my diving 'career', the ability to choose wisely the first time and get something versatile and dependable helps free the budget for other gear rather than replacement gear. |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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TadPole
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Quote:
Quote:
As far as future purchases get a wetsuit that fits you well, or if you want to splurge a drysuit for cold water. If you want a good thick wetsuit I would recommend looking at the waterproof brand but it really comes down to which brand fits your body best. When its time to buy a BC get your hands on a backplate/wing setup. Oxycheq and DSS make some great gear. If you mind the lack of pockets get yourself some x-shorts or glue some pockets on your wetsuit/drysuit. Get a good reg and you can swap out the hoses for a long hose whenever you are ready for that. Don't bother with a 5ft hose just go with the full 7. If you have a bp/w it tucks away nicely. ~Jess |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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Good choice on the jet fins. I've had mine for 30 years and have found no reason to change. As for a mask, just find something that fits you well. I wouldn't worry about the color of the skirt. It definitely won't be the last one you buy. Even if it discolors a little, it won't hurt anything. Just don't leave it out in the sun for days at a time. That will ruin any color skirt. I also think as you learn a little more, you will find most don't use a snorkel except for class purposes. Of course if you like to snorkel on occasion, just find something that appears to be good quality. Avoid the $2.99 Walmart specials. A corrugated, flexible J-tube between the barrel and the mouthpiece is good because it straightens out of the way when you are diving.
__________________
In the famous words of Captain Ron, "If anything's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there" |
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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TadPole
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for the other recommends. I was told by one person to go with Dive-Rite for BP/W, but Oxycheq appears to be easier to get a good bargain on. I'm sure I'll try them both before I buy one anyway, but it's nice to get recommendations. That's why I'm asking. I did order a snorkel from ST last night so I'm good on that. I'm thinking I'll use it more often than some folks do, just because I'm around water a lot when kayaking and see no reason not to toss a mask and snorkel in just for fun. I ordered a Genesis Mohave Dry one which they've got on sale for $20, and used my $10 gift cert and 10% (woohoo!), so if it does 1/2 as good as they claim, that'll be a great deal. |
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