Adjusting Intermediate Pressure

[talonraid]

So, I have a question for some smart guys/girls out there. We have two "experienced" salespeople in the LDS that I work for. On separate occasions each has asked me to follow them to the back while they put together a reg set-up for someone, just to go over the process and maybe teach me something. Essentially it's an easy process, but one of the store policies is that you put the newly assembled setup on a tank and BC, and try it out. Great!

The first person pointed out to me that after adjusting the intermediate pressure to between 135-138 psi, that the second stage SHOULD free-flow when you fully press the purge button and have the Venturi knob in the fully positive position. OK, got it.

The second person simply adjusted the pressure to 135 psi. So, I asked about testing the second stage (as the other guy had told me) and she looked at me like I had just taken a pee in her wetsuit. "That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard", she said.

So, I was just looking for some outside opinions here to see if this little extra test of the free-flowing second stage is a good function check or if really is the dumbest thing you've ever heard.

Thanks.

[fireflock]

To get the most out of your reg, you need to adjust both stages. Does the shop have a Magnehelic to check cracking pressure on the 2nd stage?

I would be disappointed, but not shocked, that the second person is the last one to adjust regs for customers before they head out the door. That is typically done by a reg tech and not a salesman (although plenty of people are both).

[awap]

You set IP on the 1st stage (including break-in & verification), and it is basically done. Then you set cracking pressure on the 2nd stage. Procedure & spec will vary with brands and design and can be a bit complex when the design is dual dependent adjustments. Again a break-in and verification of the cracking pressure spec. Most regs will freeflow when induced if the cracking pressure is set correctly, some more violently than others. Some may freeflow even if cracking pressure is a bit high so it probably should not be the professional tech specification but it is not a bad indicator. If it does not FF, you probably should think why before returning it to a customer.

Did they say anything about one last check, by hand, of all connections? It is a last check of an easy and potentially rather serious mistake to make.

[ReefHound]

If you fully depress the purge button of the second stage, what choice does it have but to free flow? Checking cracking pressure is good but that's not what the first guy did either.

[talonraid]

Originally Posted by fireflock

To get the most out of your reg, you need to adjust both stages. Does the shop have a Magnehelic to check cracking pressure on the 2nd stage?

I would be disappointed, but not shocked, that the second person is the last one to adjust regs for customers before they head out the door. That is typically done by a reg tech and not a salesman (although plenty of people are both).

Thanks for the responses so far.

Our shop? A Magnehelic? Are you kidding me? We don't even have a tech! We send any annual service or repair out to another store and pay their tech. Then charge the customer extra for the hassle of transporting it back and forth. At least 25% of the stuff we get back isn't done right and has to go back. We are the last place in the world I would take my own reg to be serviced. We don't even mess with adjusting second stages.

The salespeople do all the set-up and testing of the stuff we sell.

Reefhound said: "If you fully depress the purge button of the second stage, what choice does it have but to free flow? Checking cracking pressure is good but that's not what the first guy did either."

Reefhound: Just for clarification, I don't mean that the reg free flows only while holding the purge, but after releasing it. I wasn't quite sure if that was what you meant by "what choice does it have?" The first guy told me that if after pressing and releasing the purge the reg doesn't continue to free-flow then it's not adjusted correctly.

[finflippers]

Originally Posted by talonraid

The first guy told me that if after pressing and releasing the purge the reg doesn't continue to free-flow then it's not adjusted correctly.

A regulator should not continue to free flow after releasing the purge button.

[terrillja]

Originally Posted by talonraid

The first person pointed out to me that after adjusting the intermediate pressure to between 135-138 psi, that the second stage SHOULD free-flow when you fully press the purge button and have the Venturi knob in the fully positive position. OK, got it.

The second person simply adjusted the pressure to 135 psi.

Depends on the reg, my GT3s (Oceanic) are supposed to be set between 138 and 142. Oceanic's piston regs are 140-145psi. I'd be sure they are setting the correct pressure for each reg...

[No Misses]

Originally Posted by talonraid

Our shop? A Magnehelic? Are you kidding me? We don't even have a tech! We send any annual service or repair out to another store and pay their tech. Then charge the customer extra for the hassle of transporting it back and forth. At least 25% of the stuff we get back isn't done right and has to go back. We are the last place in the world I would take my own reg to be serviced. We don't even mess with adjusting second stages.

I would go easy on slamming your employer. You never know when one of your coworkers will stumble upon your posts. There can’t be that many dive shops in San Antonio with a 37 yr old reservist / real estate agent working there. It sounds to me like they are in dire need of a qualified service tech. Maybe you can get them to send you to some of the manufacturer training sessions. I know that some LDS are really cheap when it comes to paying for training. Another option would be to pay for the training yourself, assuming that you can cut a deal on piece work (they pay you $10-20 for every reg that you service for the LDS). Check with some of the other LDS service techs. They may be aware of training opportunities in your area. JM2c

[awap]

Originally Posted by finflippers

A regulator should not continue to free flow after releasing the purge button.

That is not correct. Many 2nds employ a venturi boost (assist) design which allow the air flow thru the 2nd to create a vacuum on the diaphragm which will help maintain the airflow. If this occurs and the mouthpiece is not being blocked, the vacuum will be maintained and the air will continue to flow (freeflow). In some designs, the effect can be so great as the result in positive pressure breathing. That is you will have the sensation of gas being forced into your mouth.

[talonraid]

Originally Posted by no misses

I would go easy on slamming your employer. You never know when one of your coworkers will stumble upon your posts. There can’t be that many dive shops in San Antonio with a 37 yr old reservist / real estate agent working there. It sounds to me like they are in dire need of a qualified service tech. Maybe you can get them to send you to some of the manufacturer training sessions. I know that some LDS are really cheap when it comes to paying for training. Another option would be to pay for the training yourself, assuming that you can cut a deal on piece work (they pay you $10-20 for every reg that you service for the LDS). Check with some of the other LDS service techs. They may be aware of training opportunities in your area. JM2c

You think they would fire me for being honest? Well, actually they would. If they did it would probably do me a favor. I can't afford to keep this job..it's costing me a ton of money in courses and time away from my real professions.

My co-workers (many of them feel the same way I do), buy from ScubaToys or LP as a matter of fact. They just try to get the same style or brand that we sell in the shop to give the illusion of support.

I have another post about who should pay for technician course....the shop wants me to pay the full bill, but then won't discuss how I will be paid after completing the course. Based on how I've seen the shop run so far I'm betting they would only want to pay me my hourly wage and thus save themselves $$$ while cutting me out of potential commission.
Who Pays for Repair Clinic?