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Thread: What to look for when buying used steel tanks

  1. #1
    Grouper
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    What to look for when buying used steel tanks

    I'm about to check out one used Steel 72 tank. I know it doesn't have current hydro, but I'm OK with that as the deal is good.

    Anything in particular I should look for - i.e. rust or something else?

  2. #2
    Grouper
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    Ask for all stamped and other markings - picture is best

  3. #3
    THE Supreme Master Spammer Founding Member
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    Steel 72's are cool. I used them for 20 years. But unless you plan on doubling, I think there are better alternatives out there in the way of steel.

    But to answer your question, surface rust does not necessarily mean a deal breaker.
    What is the service presure of this one?
    Tim "The Star and Crescent shall not be worn by every man, but only by him who is worthy to wear it. He must be a gentleman... a man of honor and courage... a man of zeal, yet humble... an intelligent man...a man of truth... one who tempers action with wisdom and, above all else, one who walks in the light of God."

  4. #4
    Grouper
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    I'm buying from non-divers so they don't know :-(. I asked over email if they can copy down the markings and am just hoping for the best.

    In terms of alternatives - what do you have in mind. In terms of AL tanks, I'm a bit turned off with the whole negative buoyancy thing. Fair enough, there are AL tanks which are neutrally buoyant, but most of the used AL tanks I saw so far weren't neutrally buouant.

  5. #5
    Grand Poobah Founding Member
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    ScubaToys Larry's Avatar
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    Just keep in mind... you might be getting into an old steel 72, which is not 72... without their plus rating, they hold just 67 cubic feet. And you may have to have it hydro, tumbled, vis, and a good chance the valve is not too good - many old steels have old J valves, and burst disks that are straight out instead of opposing - so not allowed any more.. so swap that out...

    So by the time you're all done - you spend as much or more than buying a new aluminum tank, and just grab a 3 lb weight, toss it on the tank strap - and you're dealing with the same buoyancy and have more air.

  6. #6
    Grand Master Spammer Founding Member
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    Yup to what Larry said, some of those old valves had what amounts to a bullet ready to fire at any time in them. Safe? Maybe, but what if it bursts and launches? I think seeing it in person or taking it by a shop for a vis is in order. The vis will reveal what it's going to take if anything to make it ready for usage.
    Matthew P. Cummings
    Moberly MO

  7. #7
    Shark
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    To give you an Idea I just got a ST 72 w/+ rating current viz and hydro (6/08) and new burst disc on a functioning J valve for $40 with air. I would not pay much more than $50 for a working current ST72.

  8. #8
    Barracuda
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    Here is a website that should help you choose your tanks.

    http://www.huronscuba.com/equipment/...ification.html

    Make sure look at the weight of the tank as that will effect your buoyancy and trim.

    As for a steel 72, I wouldn't get anything less then a steel 80 tank at least imho.
    Now a trimix diver!

  9. #9
    Barracuda Founding Member
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    I buy a lot of used stuff and I'm a bit suspicious of people who claim to not know anything about what they are selling. In some cases it may be legit, but sometime I think people just play dumb in order to sell crap.
    The water's more exciting.. with CHUM in it!

  10. #10
    Grouper
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    I'm definitely re-thinking the decision now guys.

    The deal is tempting - $25 only. The guy said he thinks the working pressure is around 2500. He does say it is an older tank, and needs hydro.

    Here is the pic - I'm not sure if I can make out the valve out of it - anyone else with better eyes?

    Last edited by Sasha_K; 07-21-2008 at 15:42.

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