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Thread: random thoughts of a retail slave.

  1. #1
    Grouper
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    Question random thoughts of a retail slave.

    allright, long story short, underwater photography, adventure of your life to remember, so no friend of yours cal bollocks on your story!
    keeping that in mind I`ve aquired Sealife SL35 35mm film camera with underwater housing and sweeet yellow pelican carrying case (for, ironically $35, and it was NEW!) first time i was trying the camera it was in the swimming pool, and it worked rather good, though i`ve noticed traces of condesation inside of the housing (normal thing i thought), so last time I went diving, I took it with me. and it flooded, after i finished dive i had about 3 tablespoons worth of water inside the housing, and inside the camera... some pictures are here underwater camera housing problem | Fly, Dive, Drive…
    (my dive buddy in OMS wet suit) visible water damage on the pictures. (also have, a simple strobe for it that I`ve got as a "set" for camera) Demo Reefmaster External Strobe reviews and discounts, SeaLife

    How to check what in the housing leaks, maybe main o-ring needs to be replaced? how can i tell? or is there any way to check shutter mechanism for leaks?

    regardless of the outcome, Ive also ordered recently (still waiting for it) housing for my Nikon L20, fantasea in a good price. question about that combo, is, will it work with my strobe? how should i set the camera for underwater pictures taking?
    i have a fair share of experience in regular photography, but not underwater yet...
    D(r)ive safe!
    Maciej.

  2. #2
    Shark
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    to deduce where the water is leaking from, sprinkle powdered koolaid in the case, seal it, then take it underwater with you...

    this works best on clear housings, but I assume it could work on the completely colored housing as well... after a varied amount of time in the pool, open it up and see if there are water drops that have turned the koolaid into the color it is supposed to be and a liquid...

    do this without the camera in the housing...

    I think I read that this was brand new... Being that is has been some time since the camera was discontinued, I can only imagine that the case sat with it in the closed position for a long long time, which can flatten the o-ring between the two pieces of the housing...


    I'm not familiar with the Nikons, but if the camera has manual settings, then it should be fine... Or, if no manual, then so long as you can adjust the EV in aperture or shutter priority mode, you should be good to go...
    -cody / on vacation from vacation...
    PADI MSDT Instructor, US Coast Guard Captain - Master Near Coastal

  3. #3
    Grouper alpha's Avatar
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    I seldom film underwater. However, I believe one hair across the o ring can result in the problem. Another old thread has various adsorbents listed to go in the case if a drop or two of condensation should occur. I believe some type of womans adsorbent pad was often used. Small adsorbents from pill bottles sometimes work also. I think Devil Diver is the one that is most experienced if you check his old posts you will probably see it (underwater photography) discussed.

  4. #4
    Grouper
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    A. Water in that type of camera of any sort is not normal and should have been clue number 1. True that digital cameras get hot in use and drive off moisture that then can condensate on the port thus the need for desiccant packs, most film cameras never really had that issue, at least not as much so.

    B. The Sealife 35 is probably not worth spending a lot of effort on. I would replace all seals including the door seal and the shutter release seal, a complete rebuild, if you expect it not to leak water.

    C. Underwater photos are taken pretty much the same way surface photos are taken, meter the scene, select an appropriate f stop and shutter speed, push the shutter button, review the lcd, in the case of a 35mm, review the developed negatives.

    D. Most likely the Sealife strobes will not sync with the L20. The L20 is a fully auto digi cam, these typically emit one or several pre-flashes prior to the actual shutter opening in order for the camera exposure system to calculate exposure. The Sealife strobes being built for a film camera which likely did not pre-flash, they will fire on the pre-flash. Some digital cameras when operating in Manual mode (advanced Point and Shoots like the G11) do not have a pre-flash and can operate with limited function with such strobes----and all of this assuming the strobes are optical, if they are hardwire sync, no, they will not work with the L20 I do not think. You would have to have a remote optical sensor.

    N
    Swim down, swim around, swim back up.


  5. #5
    Dominus Diabolus Urinatoris ST-Forum Mod DevilDiver's Avatar
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    I agree with Nimrod, I can't see putting much effort/money into the Sealife SL35. If I were guessing the main O-ring would most likely be where the issue was and could have been caused by many of things already stated.

    The Kool-Aid trick is interesting and would work unless it was a major leak, I would suggest a very good cleaning afterward to insure no sediment or crystals could form inside the housing especially around any buttons. Not really suggesting doing this though.....

    As far as the strobe Nimrod is correct again. I would suggest considering one of the Fantasea Remora strobe set up's based on your Nikon and assuming you are trying to keep a low budget for a starter package.
    DevilDiver

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