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Thread: XS Scuba Worthington Tanks OR Bluesteel Faber Tanks?

  1. #1
    TadPole
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    XS Scuba Worthington Tanks OR Bluesteel Faber Tanks?

    I'd love to hear opinions on which steel tanks you prefer and why... I'm specifically looking at the steel 100s specs, but would love to hear from those who use larger or smaller steel tanks that have a preference too. Looking at the specs, I've found the following to start:
    • Worthingtons are slightly shorter and lighter
    • Worthingtons come with a better valve. ?? (More info please)
    • Worthington's finish could be better. ?? (more info)
    • Bouyancy is similar but the Worthingtons are a little more negative than the Fabers
    • Do the Faber's tend to be more expensive or less expensive than the Worthingtons?
    • Anything else?

  2. #2
    Barracuda
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    I prefer the Worthingtons because I got a better deal on them new. I also prefer PST because I got mine cheaper used. I'll prefer Faber when I get a better deal on one...

    Point is they're all good tanks, go with whicever brand you get a better deal on.

  3. #3
    Megalodon
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    IMHO, the one thing that put me more in favor of the Worthington (XS Scuba) is the hot galvanizing. It hold up a lot better than the paint on the Fabers.

    I once saved a man in Wichita just to watch him dive...(inventor)

  4. #4
    Grouper
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    Quote Originally Posted by navyhmc View Post
    IMHO, the one thing that put me more in favor of the Worthington (XS Scuba) is the hot galvanizing. It hold up a lot better than the paint on the Fabers.
    X2
    and got a great price...
    There is a God... Come diving I'll show you!!
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  5. #5
    Barracuda Founding Member
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    Agree, as for the valve, in my opinion, a pro valve is a pro valve. I have one worthington and one Faber (LP121s) and the Worthington finish is MUCH more durable. As to cost, my observation has been that the used worthingtons tend to go for a bit more than the fabers but that isn't scientific by any means.
    Flatliner
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  6. #6
    Guppy vegas911diver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hammer View Post
    I prefer the Worthingtons because I got a better deal on them new. I also prefer PST because I got mine cheaper used. I'll prefer Faber when I get a better deal on one...

    Point is they're all good tanks, go with whicever brand you get a better deal on.
    +1. All the tanks are good

  7. #7
    The dimensions of the cylinder are a personal thing. What works for one diver might not work for another. If you care enough about your trim and buoyancy then you'd have to try the different cylinders to see which one works for you. Personally, I'm still working on my kit so any tank will do for me right now.

    As stated, the Worthington cylinders are hot dipped galvanized steel. This tends to be better at resisting surface corrosion than the painted cylinders. As a wreck diver I will occasionally bang and scratch my cylinders. The Worthington cylinders work better for me because of this.

    I have read that the Worthington cylinders are slightly more negative than the Faber cylinders but not by much. In some cases this could be a disadvantage. If I dive my HP100 without an exposure suit, I am negative with no weights. I actually have to wear a wetsuit or drysuit with my HP100 or I'm too negatively buoyant. If diving doubles even a 3mm wetsuit would not be sufficient. I'm generally a floaty kind of guy. If I was naturally less buoyant (like one of our instructors) the Worthington HP100 with a 3mm would be too negatively buoyant. Again, the only way to find out if this is a problem is to dive with the tank.

    As for the valve, for most people a valve is a valve. Is the knob rubber? Or hard plastic? A hard plastic knob will break and possibly shatter if you hit it on something. Rubber knobs are better. How many turns does it take to open or close the valve? If you are doing valve drills or you need to close your valve to stop a freeflow, a Genesis valve will take longer to close than a Thermo valve.

    Other things which make a valve better: converts between yoke and DIN and flow rate. For recreational diving the flow rate will not matter but if you are going to be getting into technical diving you'll need a good flow rate for the REALLY deep dives. Personally, by the time I'm diving below 330 feet I'd be spending $5000+ on gear/training/fills so changing the valves on my cylinders would not be an issue. Heck, by the time that happens a trimix will (due to the depletion of helium) cost $1300 so I'd probably switch to a rebreather and sell all my tanks for open circuit diving.

    Even knowing all these my purchase of tanks has been solely based on cost. If it is a bargain I'll take it, e.g. HP119 for $335 with a nitrox fill. The cylinder is a monster out of the water but how can you pass up that price.
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