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Thread: DIY Canister Light

  1. #21
    Guppy
    Join Date
    01/11/2008
    Location
    chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    181
    I'd like to know. also, how did you mount the switch? drill through the light?

  2. #22
    TadPole
    Join Date
    07/31/2007
    Location
    Pembroke Pines, FL
    Posts
    31
    The piezo switch I got from Allied Electronics online and the controller I got from a guy from Australia. Check his site out. Good info too.

    Dive Light Genie Electronics.


    The switch is mounted on the light which was drilled and glued in with JB-Weld (My favorite glue). I used the regular version not the quick.


    Later...
    ChillyWilly

  3. #23
    Guppy
    Join Date
    01/14/2008
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    65
    Chilly,

    What did you make the clear top out of? I went by Home Depot today and was meandering and saw acrylic panels and Lexan, and the Lexan just seemed too flexible. Or course it was only .093 inches thick....

  4. #24
    TadPole
    Join Date
    02/23/2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    22
    What is to benifit to using a PVC tube for a canaster vs a pelincan case? Cost? Looks? or performance?

  5. #25
    Grand Master Spammer Founding Member
    Join Date
    07/11/2007
    Location
    Studio City, CA, USA
    Posts
    8,410
    Quote Originally Posted by granolatree View Post
    What is to benifit to using a PVC tube for a canaster vs a pelincan case? Cost? Looks? or performance?
    Performance. Pelican cases are not as dependably waterproof as you might think. A sphere has the best resistance to pressure, followed by a cylinder. Also easy shapes to work with, and hold batteries nicely.

  6. #26
    TadPole
    Join Date
    07/31/2007
    Location
    Pembroke Pines, FL
    Posts
    31
    Taigin,


    For the top I used plexi, it was the thickest they sold. So I laminated 3 pieces together. Two with the outer diameter and one with the inner (o-ring seat). This part took me a while and I had to do it twice. My suggestion is to cut the inner piece to the exact size and he outer ones i would leave and extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Glue the together, make sure you vise them together vertically (This was the first mistake i did) in case the glue runs it will run off the edge and drip down. If you do it horizontally the glue will run and mess up the plexi because it will run in all directions. Ones it is dry, i clamped a belt sander to a table and used it to sand to a perfect circle. The belt sander actually gave it a nice finish to my surprise and you can barely see the junction between the pieces of plexi. Also cut the plexi with a bandsaw or jigsaw. I tried using rotary cutter but the RPM is too hig and melt the plastic, now if you go bigger it wouldn't matter.

    Granola,

    I used pipe because the battery fit perfectly in it and i was trying to get the best look and smallest footprint. The area exposed to the elements is also smaller. Round is great with pressure.
    ChillyWilly

  7. #27
    TadPole
    Join Date
    07/31/2007
    Location
    Pembroke Pines, FL
    Posts
    31
    Compudude,


    That's funny, yur response came in right before mine and I gues we agree on why a cilinder is good.


    Thanks,
    ChillyWilly

  8. #28
    TadPole
    Join Date
    08/22/2007
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    39
    Images
    2
    I'm in the middle of building a light and could use a little guidance. I've made the cannister (bottom portion) and it fits my 16.8v 10AH nimh battery nicely (it's a little big and overboard but that's my style ) I had an extra 4D cell Maglite that I've cut down for the light head. I'm on my second top because the first one had a leak somewhere and I couldn't find where it was coming from. It's made from two pieces of 1/2 inch plexiglass stepped to fit half in the cannister and capture the o-ring.

    Where I could use a little help is concerning the switch and gland.
    1) Should I simply drill a hole for both of them and use the o-rings and nuts to make the seal OR should I actually take the time to drill the hole too small and tap it so that I can screw them in?

    2) Has anyone had any luck using toggle switches? The first boots I bought for the switch clearly weren't up to the job. I've since bought some heavy duty boots that with brass threads and rubber lip for sealing but I've considered adding some clear caulk/silicon for extra protection.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  9. #29
    TadPole
    Join Date
    07/31/2007
    Location
    Pembroke Pines, FL
    Posts
    31
    Sorry Man,


    I hadn't checked the thread.

    Actually I drilled the hole for the gland and used JBweld to glue it to the maglite and did use the nut but left the oring out. I also glued it to the acrylic top but in this case i did not use either the nut or the oring. Once i pased the wire througt I filled the rest of the acrylic hole up with clear silicone just in case.


    Not sure about the toggle and the boot, i haven't used one. Check the MSN group that I had suggested earlier, there are a bunch of people with great ideas on that.


    Later...
    ChillyWilly

  10. #30
    Grouper Founding Member
    Join Date
    07/11/2007
    Location
    Wylie, Tx
    Age
    42
    Posts
    522
    Great looking light Chilly,

    I started building the light for fun a few months ago and am complete with the housing, I've ruined a few rechargeable D batteries because my soldering sucks.
    Negra Modelo por favor.

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