What to look for in used tanks?

[Scout]

Hello,

New poster and recently certified diver here. I'm interested in purchasing tanks simply for the convenience of not having to drive across town to the dive shop every time I want to dive. However, I don't think I'll be able to dive locally more than 10 or so times a year, other than trips to exotic places.

So, to get the cost down, I've been keeping my eyes open for used tanks. What should I look for? AL or steel? If the tank hasn't been hydro'd recently, is that a problem, other than the cost of the hydro? Is there a particular brand to look for, or, avoid?

Thanks!

Scout

[cummings66]

For the price of an AL tank I'd probably buy new, otherwise they're worth $50 or $60 in current hydro and vis.

Make sure they're clean and not oxidized/rusted and that it's a fairly new tank if AL. Steel I might want to do a visual before I bought or have an agreement that it pass the visual/hydro test as needed.

[ReefHound]

To be honest, I'm not sure it is worth buying used. Seems to me people want too much for them, especially when they are out of viz or hydro. I've bought a lot of used scuba gear, from computers to regs to BCs, but I would only buy used tanks from someone I knew and was sure wouldn't screw me.

[DivingsInMyBlood]

hello and welcome, buying your own tank seems like a good idea if you plan to dive a bit locally.

[chinacat46]

I'd make sure it had a recent hydro and make the sale contingent on the tank passing a visual inspection. Even if it had a visual last week it could have been dropped or damaged in some way so I'd want it inspected if it wasn't new. Of course that will add to the cost of the tank so YMMV.

[cummings66]

Yeah, but around here a visual is less than $20 everywhere you go. I get my tanks O2 cleaned and inspected for that price.

[rubberduck]

Also avoid the older ones made before 1988. They are made of a weaker aluiminum alloy and many shops will not fill them anymore.

One recently blew in a dive shop in RI.

[mike_s]

Originally Posted by Scout

Hello,

New poster and recently certified diver here. I'm interested in purchasing tanks simply for the convenience of not having to drive across town to the dive shop every time I want to dive. However, I don't think I'll be able to dive locally more than 10 or so times a year, other than trips to exotic places.

So, to get the cost down, I've been keeping my eyes open for used tanks. What should I look for? AL or steel? If the tank hasn't been hydro'd recently, is that a problem, other than the cost of the hydro? Is there a particular brand to look for, or, avoid?

Thanks!

Scout

Here's something to look for.

1.) Does the tank have air in it when being sold. An empty tank is an indicator of a leaky valve and also an indicator that there might be moisture inside the tank which can cause corrosion. An empty tank that you don't know anything about SHOULD be visually inspected before used to make sure the inside is ok

2.) Check to see when the tank was originally made. Aluminum tanks made by Luxfer before May 1988 were made of 6351 aluminum alloy which is susceptible to SLC (Substained Load Cracking). There are many of these tanks still in use, but people are leary of them. you will have a hard time in many areas finding a dive shop that will fill them. Some shops won't fill any tanks before 1989 regardless of brand. Which is stupid, but oh well. Best thing to do is to avoid these tanks by not purchasing any Luxfer tanks made before May 1988.

3.) Visually inspect the outside of the tank yourself before buying. Look for corrosion, pitting, etc. Read the numbers on the tank yourself. I bought a tank off EBAY once and the guy lied about what the tank was for example. Of course he wouldn't repsond afterwards.

4.) Brands to avoid? besides the above, some people don't like the Genesis (Asashi) spun steel tanks. These are pretty rare to come across with all the other tanks out there. Some people like them though.

5.) Steel or Aluminum? I think you'll find most people who have steel prefer the steel tanks. They are more negative bouyant and you don't have to wear as much weight. Also the High Pressure (HP) tanks can hold more air for their physical size. For example, a HP100 is about the same size as an AL80, but holds 22.3 cubic feet of more air. The only thing about steel tanks is they typically cost more.

6.) Tanks not in Hydro: Usually not a problem but you run the risk that it won't pass hydro, though this is rare. It's just a risk and expense you take. Check your LDS for hydro costs & visual costs and factor that into your price for purchase. Or you can go direct to the hydro facility like many of us do. It's a little cheaper typically that way. Note not all hydro facilities do visual stickers and air fills, so you might still have to go to your LDS.

7.) Is it worth buying used? Depends all on price. Typically AL80's are going for about $150 online right now even through Scuba Toys. LP has a sale on them for $115 right now. most LDS's charge $170 to $200 for them. A used AL80 will usually go between $25 and $125 bucks depending on if it's agie, it's condition, whether it's in need of hydro/vis or if it's all current and maybe o2 clean and full of nitrox. Consider that O2 cleaning costs about $25 to $50 on average and that a 32% nitrox fill is about $10 bucks depending on where you live. That can easily make a tank more valuable to a buyer who'd have to spend that.

There is nothing wrong with a used tank if you can get a good deal on it. But if it's out of hydro, needs a vis, needs O2 cleaning, and needs a nitrox sticker band, needs a nitrox fill, factor all your costs and see what the difference in buying the tank used and what a new tank is. If the new tank is close in price, I'd buy the new one. If it's a good deal, I'd buy the used tanks.

hope this all helps. happy shopping.

[BSea]

I have bought 5 used tanks (all steel). Some have been in hydro, and some haven't. So far I've never had 1 fail a hydro. But to be fair, 3 were current for hydro & VIP.

I avoid tanks with rust spots & 1/2" valves. Even though I have a set of 38's with the 1/2" valves, I won't buy anymore. They are just too much of a hassle. To be fair, they are doubles, and have to be tweaked to keep from leaking, but the valve threads need to be taped, and they don't have an o-ring seal.

I've been told to avoid the steel tanks with the built in feet. They are rare, but they are out there.

I bought my AL pony used also, but it had a fresh hydro & VIP. and was only 5 years old.

[subsur]

i don't know where you live but if you wear a lot of exposure protection i'd suggest getting a steel tank. the price on used steel tanks goes down slowly. so if you buy it new and for a good price, it might be a low devaluating thing. I were buying a used steel tank, or any tank for that matter, i'd want the owner to do a VIP test and hydro (if it's exrired or due soon). if you're buying on-line, ask for pictures. it the tank is perfect inside but a bit corroded outside, you can easily repaint it.