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#1 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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HP steel tanks, which one to get?
Im debating between the HP 100, 119 and 130. I know they all are shorter than an AL 80, and the larger 2 have a 8in diameter, which is fine, but i still cant decide.
With the 130s it might be possible to do 2 dives off of one tank, which would be a plus, but do i really need that much air if im doing a single dive off the tank? Since the weight doesn't bother me, and there is barely any difference in price, should i just go with the 130s and have some extra air for the times im diving with people who have gills, or just in general in case something comes up underwater? Am i overlooking anything with the smaller tanks? Thanks for helping me out guys -Paintsnow
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Las Vegas Divers |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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I don't want to be mean, but seriously, there is an active thread in this section that is currently talking about this exact topic.
Tank size? General consensus is HP120 if you are big dude and don't mind carrying a heavy tank. HP100 for normal single tank dives, or if you eventually want to dive doubles. You can just but another HP100 and put a doubles manifold on them. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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I saw that thread, but nobody had mentioned the 119s or 130s, and it seems like a more general al/steel low/high pressure tank decision.
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Las Vegas Divers |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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HP100s if you're average build and shore diving =)
-B
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Brandon
PADI Open Water/Advanced Open Water- Valdez, AK PADI Rescue Diver - Unalaska, AK PADI Divemaster Candidate BeringSeaDivers.com - Dive "The Deadliest Catch!" |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Grouper
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I chose steel 120's.
+They fit in the same tank brackets as AL80 (7.25") +They carry my backup gas inside. (No redundant regs but I am OK with that. I carry a pony on deep dives). +I don't have to mess with my BC straps if I choose to dive an AL80 (7.25" thing again) +Weight distribution works for me (5' 11") -They are heavier than AL80 when full and out of the water. -The fills may cost you more than a smaller cylinder. -They are too tall for some divers I plan on getting a couple of Steel 100’s next. I will buy them doubled and then convert the valves to singles (remove isolator and plug opening). This way I will have all the necessary parts to double them back up when the need arises. At least that is my plan J
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* If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes * |
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#6 (permalink) |
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TadPole
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I'm new to all this and have a very old 72 which may not pass its next visual. I'm 6'-3", 235#, and do shore and boat diving. Money is not a problem. Until I improve my skills, I'm sucking air like a cheap *****. Should I assume an HP 130 for singles and a matched pair of HP 100's for later doubles? Any help would be appreciated. I also hope this ain't a thread hijack thing, like I said I'm new to all this.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Shark
Founding Member
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How big are you Paint?
I can't see a 17 year old needing more than a 100 for adequate gas. They are very light and compact. The 119's and 130's are very heavy. My 17 year old buddy dives 65's.
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Tim ![]() They called themselves Guerrilla Divers. Composed of elite divers with Macho mentalities, back when men were men, and FEAR was a lispy companion of the common Man. It was a time before insurance liabilities, lawsuits or beauracratic regulation of the "sport". Guerrilla divers didn't need "Buoyancy Compensator Vests". In fact, "Anyone who needs a BC deserves to drown" was a popular adage. Exploration and the Hunt came first, excitement and fun followed. Safety was the stepchild of fitness, good reflexes and a cool head. This was a time of great Adventure. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odvaMAq7dnc |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Guppy
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Quote:
Available Tanks: HP100 7.25 dia 24" long 33 lbs HP120 7.25 dia 28" long 38 lbs HP119 8.00 dia 24" long 42 lbs HP130 8.00 dia 25" long 43 lbs At your height there is no advantage to a short 119 over a longer 120, and there is a 4 lb weight penalty. I don't think the extra 8% of air you get in a 130 justifies the 5 lb weight penalty to carry it around (as well as the 8" diameter), so the 120 is the best choice IMO. If money is not an issue and you are sure you are going to go to doubles, you could get two matched 120's and an isolation manifold right now. Remove the center piece and plug the ports on the tank valves, and you have two single tanks to use now and avoid trips to the fill station. Later, you can band them together, and you have doubles with no extra expense. The double 120's are only 10 lbs more than the double 100's. This should not be an issue at 6-3, 235#. That said, it is all personal preference. I dive an HP100 and am thinking about a HP119. I am 5'10" and the shorter tank gives me better horizontal trim, and I have no plans on ever diving doubles. A HP119 and a pony bottle will get me anywhere I plan on going. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Barracuda
Founding Member
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I LOVE the Worthington HP130's. I have doubled up Worthington HP120's which are nice too, but I like the fact that the 130's are shorter. Someday I will buy two more HP 130's to double up. With my air hog buddy I easily get 2 dives off of it. For a buddy with similiar SAC and they are diving 80's or 100's I just have a good reserve left. I do not think you can have to much air. Some people do not like to waist the air that they have paid for, since most shops you pay for a fill weather the tank is empty or only half full. I have a unlimited air fill card so I do not mind taking the tank in with 1000psi. They really are not that heavy out of the water. I have done plenty of shore diving with mine. I guess if you are near an ocean and doing a lot of charters then the 8" diameter might be a factor if the boat is only set up for 7.25" tanks. For the money I would spend the extra and get the 130, but that is just me...
Phil
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