1974 LP 72 questions?

[CFDAlden]

Quick question. I was given a LP 72 made in 74, from what I can tell.

I have a top line of 11 74 K3AA2250 (manuf 11/1974 2250 fill pressure)
Below that is 12 3 K123911 (guessing the serial number here)

Then below the s/n is USD (US Divers, again, a guess)

Then below that is 2070+ (Plus rated??)

There are also 3 hydro markings on the tank.

There may be more markings, but the tank was painted at some point in the past.

Am I translating this right?

The tank is under pressure, with a J valve. A couple places where the paint has chipped away has very minor surface rust.

Should I have the tank stripped before sending it off for a hydro and vis?

Thanks!

[cummings66]

Technically obscuring markings on a cylinder will make it fail an inspection, so if it is obscured I would certainly strip it first, but be aware that it will rust in the blink of an eye so I'd be prepared to paint it with ZRC when you finish up.

[Rainer]

Many of these older 72s were galvanized. Is this one? If it is, stripping it should not lead to it 'rusting in the blink of an eye.'

[cummings66]

That's the nice thing about galvanized cylinders, they're tough and it takes a lot to remove the coating. My LDS had a bunch of them forsale last year at $50 ea with current hydro and VIP, but every single one of them was painted and looked like hell. But, as old as they were no serious rust. Probably like yours some had 3 different colors of paint on them in different spots.

[ScaredSilly]

I would get it hydro'd before doing anything. One of mine also given to me, of the same vintage just failed.

[CFDAlden]

I have a friend with a bodyshop, who will strip, and then seal it for me for nothing. I'm dropping it off to him tomorrow, and get it to hydro next week. Hopefully, it will work out. If not, I'm out nothing.

The paint on it looks like a latex paint, rolled on. Same style texture. One of the older hydros looks like it was stamped, then someone with a heavy hand on a spray gun laid it on thick. Tank looks like hell, it should clean up nice, though.

[rox@ucf11]

make sure no heat is involved aka baking the paint on.

[cummings66]

Normal procedure is a quick VIP to see if it's worth sending out for hydro. No sense spending that money if it's going to fail anyways. Plus, just because it passes hydro doesn't mean it will pass the VIP.

For what it's worth, everybody should see a hydro shop in action, pretty neat and not what you would expect.

[CFDAlden]

It passed a quick and dirty VIP, so off it went for stripping, and sealing. Buddy is going to put a light primer and seal coat on it.

I should have taken some before and after pics. I'll do some after, at least.

[cummings66]

If it's galvanized you don't need to seal it. If it's just paint you would be fine, just be sure all the markings are intact and that you keep a record of paint and technique used. Some shops will not fill a cylinder that's been repainted so if you have one of those kind of shops around I'd also check with them for suggestions so that you don't end up in the cold.