![]() |
Or Search ScubaToys.com for Gear! |
|
|||||||
| Tanks You're welcome... er.. no. Scuba Tanks - aluminum, steel, big, small, pony bottles, doubles, etc. |
|
Welcome to the Scuba Forum - Scuba Diving Forums and Discussion Board. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Barracuda
Founding Member
|
cost is about the same.
i have a really nice, smoke color tank (shiny and sparkly) and it has a weird hue to it! well, from the first day i went out diving, it started to get scratched against my brothers tanks and all of our gears.
__________________
Danilo If anyone has the winning lottery numbers for next week, please send me a PM with those numbers. Thanks. -Black-Gorrilla!! |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Grouper
Founding Member
|
If by "last" you mean remain in perfect, factory condition, the answer is one, maybe two dives.
If you baby them, they might look good for 4 or 5 dives, but eventually they'll hit something and scratch. If by "last" you mean how long will there be remnants of the paintjob on the tank, well it'll be there for all of time, but only in the areas where it can't hit things and get scratched off If you want coloured tanks, then go for it! There's really no cost difference, and there isn't much of a problem with them, other than the fact that they do look worse over time than unpainted tanks, because they get scratched and look like they have a bad case of mange. If you dive saltwater, rinse them well after every dive, make sure that no salt water gets stuck under flaking paint, where it can corrode the tank faster. As long as you rinse the tanks, it shouldn't be a problem. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) | |
|
Guppy
|
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Yep! I got an AL80 with a clear blue plastic wrapper around it. It looked really nice in the shop. ![]() After a few dives, it had some good diongs and scratches. I've noticed that the aluminum in and around the scratches and dings is getting that wonderful salt water oxidized aluminum look. ![]() I may have to resaort to some serious elbow grease to remove the pretty coating. ![]() On the bright side: lesson learned...never again... ![]() Ian
__________________
Ian Wilson PADI OW / AOW (OW2) / Rescue / Master / DM |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Grouper
Founding Member
|
And another problem is you cannot remove the paint very easily. If you do anything that will physically remove metal, like sanding it, you will be required by law to have it rehydrotested, and many places will fail it autmoatically, they get pretty touchy about it.
Also, the manufacturer sometimes sands tanks that are a little thick on one side, then slaps a coat of paint on them and off they go. So if you strip the paint chemically, you may find that your tank was sanded by Luxfer or Catalina or whomever, and you probably can't prove to the hydrotester that you didn't sand it, so you'll have to put up with alot of bullcrap in order to get it hydroed, potentially, even if you use chemical paint removers. Lastly, you can always repaint it, but many places will also refuse to fill or hydro a repainted tank, because many paints require heat curing, and that will damage a tank, and they don't know if you heat cured it or not. Also, it'll just get dinged up again. My advice: get the ones that have no coating whatsoever, but not the shotblast ones, but the ones that have lines around the circumference of the cylinder. Otherwise, get shot blast. If you can't get that, then get clearcoat. If you can't get that, get yellow, an dif you can't get that then start freediving instead The "tank wraps" that are like mesh, they don't work. Rather, they work in your car and whatnot, but sometimes let the tank slip out of your BC, some pepole say. So many people put them on after every dive, to protect the tank in the car and in storage....but you'll still ding it sometime. Why go through all the trouble? just get a tank without a coating! |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) | |||
|
Barracuda
Founding Member
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
You can get them galvanized hot dipped. that's the best finish to get for longevity. doesn't look the prettiest, but will last longer. |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) | |
|
Grouper
Founding Member
|
Quote:
Here is what Luxfer says about repainting: Luxfer Technical Bulletin on repainting 6061 alloy tanks They actually reccomend soft media blasting to remove paint, rather than paint strippers, as best as I can tell. |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
||
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| tank size??? | Divemore | Tanks | 42 | 06-08-2008 09:00 AM |
| What is an exemption on a tank? | Jamesmb | Tanks | 2 | 08-27-2007 09:00 PM |
| Tank info available | cgvmer | Tanks | 1 | 08-27-2007 09:36 AM |
| new steel tank | rubberduck | Tanks | 22 | 08-25-2007 01:51 PM |
| Why Should I Purchase a Tank? | JipThePeople | Tanks | 55 | 08-22-2007 02:17 PM |