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| UW Photo 101 Where newbies go to ask dumb questions... Oh, I forgot - there are no dumb questions! |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Guppy
Founding Member
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I have an inexpensive underwater digital camera, (Intova ic 600), and there is a red filter available, for around $35.00 <DIV>What are the benefits of the red filter and should I get one?? </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>(I have a couple of wreck dives lined up, in Bermuda, next month so, if I get one, I need to order it soon)</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>The pic, below, was taken at night, at a depth of ~ 20' (It'snot the best pic, as it was only my second dive with a camera and I'm stillhave a lot to learn) My dive buddy and Ilit this little guy up with our flashlights. </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>Would the color have been better, with a red filter?</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>Any tips, or suggestions, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV>
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#2 (permalink) |
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TadPole
Founding Member
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The first part of the color spectrum lost when diving is the red spectrum. It starts to die off at about 12 feet and continues as you descent.
Using a red filter can help put back the red that is lost, but before you run out and spend money on a filter, you might want to decide how far you are planning taking your underwater photography. You see the use of strobes (remote flash units) will alleviate most of the color balancing issues you will run across as you will be hitting your subject with surface equivalent light source, so the effect of depth on the color spectrum should be, for the most part, nullified. If you only plan on shooting with an on-board flash (the one that is part of your camera, or using ambient light only (no flash whatsoever) than a red filter will help balance the color loss. One other thing, if you have a copy of, or access to, Adobe's Photoshop, you can adjust the red back into your shot post shooting. So if you already have Photoshop, save your money. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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TadPole
Founding Member
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While Storm's points are valid, some clarification is in order:
A red filter doesn't "put back in" the red. It filters out other colors so that the limited amount of red that is available is more pronounced. The thing to remember is that your filtering OUT light, so you'll need to adjust your camera accordingly (shutter & aperature) if you can do these manually. Otherwise, set your camera for a low light condition. The use of strobes is much more desirable. You're adding light to the scene, as opposed to relying on ambient conditions. You will still have filtering by the water. Keep in mind the light needs to go from your strobe, bounce off the object(s) being photographed, then back to your camera, so you're looking at a filtering of 2x the distance to the object. No strobe is equivalent to the sun, so you're not going to get surface equivalent lighting, but everything can help. You do add potential problems with strobes, such as back scatter, so you've got another piece of equipment to learn. A red filter doesn't hurt with a strobe, either, btw. One of the best things you can do is to white balance your camera underwater. Most of the better cameras allow for a manual white balance option. You'll take a slate, hold it at the approximate distance from the camera as objects you're going to photograph, and the camera will adjust its color settings appropriately to get the normal range of colors in your shot. Read your users manual for specific instructions for your camera. This technique will work with or without filters or strobes, and get you as close as possible (assuming you do it right) to what you're looking for. Keep in mind, however, that if you change water depths dramatically, or distance to the subject, you'll need to readjust (re-white balance) before taking more shots. Lastly, concerning Photoshop, or other photo editing software. It definitely helps. There is rarely a picture I'll publish that hasn't been run through Photoshop, but if you're trying to create something that isn't there to begin with (reds/oranges/etc) then the software is just guessing, and it can screw up a shot. My use of these is to just tweak final settings, not create a new picture. You'll do much better learning to get the shot right the first time, then relying on software to fix things later. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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TadPole
Founding Member
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Quote:
Jeff, Thanks for clarifying. My post was quick and dirty as I was at the office and the boss was bouncing in and out all afternoon. You are quite right of course in all of your points. The point I was trying to make was that if the OP is going to stick around in UW photography, then a strobe, or set of strobe, are better bets rather than relying on a filter that as you said, filters out light, and light, or rather a lack there of, is one of our biggest nemesis. I've owned many filters over my life taking pictures, most of them I can't even lay a hand on now as I simply never use them and wouldn't know where I stored them. I'll have to look and see if I've got a red one that will work with my UW rig. Truth be told I've been using Photoshop to retouch my shots, where necessary, and up here, where I dive, ambient light shots are few and far between especially at depth. We're lucky to get 20 feet visibility and the water is green, so strobes are almost mandatory. Anyway, thanks again for clarifying. I logged in there tonight to correct some of my glossed over points, , but you got to it first. |
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